Hydrolyzed Phaeodactylum Tricornutum Extract: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 27, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Hydrolyzed Phaeodactylum Tricornutum Extract?

Hydrolyzed Phaeodactylum Tricornutum Extract comes from a microalga called Phaeodactylum tricornutum. When this alga is broken down with water, enzymes, or mild acids, its cell walls open up and release a mix of proteins, amino acids, sugars, and minerals. This step, called hydrolysis, turns larger molecules into smaller ones that skin can recognize and use more easily.

Interest in marine ingredients grew in the 1990s as brands looked for new ways to deliver antioxidants and moisturizers without heavy oils. Researchers noticed that this particular microalga thrived in harsh coastal conditions thanks to protective molecules inside it. By the early 2000s labs began hydrolyzing the alga to pull out these helpful bits for use in creams and serums.

The process starts with sustainably grown algae harvested from controlled tanks or clean coastal farms. After cleaning, the biomass is mixed with water and either an enzyme blend or gentle acid. Heat and agitation help break down the cell walls over several hours. The liquid portion is then filtered and concentrated to create a stable extract that blends easily into water-based formulas.

You will most often find Hydrolyzed Phaeodactylum Tricornutum Extract in lightweight moisturizers, anti-aging serums, hydrating sheet masks, after-sun gels, and soothing eye creams where brands want to add a plant-derived skin conditioner without extra oil or fragrance.

Hydrolyzed Phaeodactylum Tricornutum Extract’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This ingredient shows up on labels mainly for one job: skin conditioning. It helps products leave skin feeling soft, smooth, and comfortably hydrated. By supplying small peptides, amino acids, and sugars it can support the skin’s natural moisture barrier and improve overall texture without a greasy feel.

Who Can Use Hydrolyzed Phaeodactylum Tricornutum Extract

This marine extract is lightweight and water based so it suits nearly every skin type, including oily, combination, dry and sensitive. Because it is free of added oils and fragrances it rarely clogs pores or triggers breakouts, making it a friendly option for acne-prone skin as well. Very reactive or allergy-prone individuals should still keep an eye on how their skin responds since any botanical source can contain trace proteins that might cause sensitivity.

The raw material is harvested from microalgae cultivated in controlled tanks and involves no animal-derived additives, so it is considered suitable for both vegans and vegetarians.

Current data show no ingredients in Hydrolyzed Phaeodactylum Tricornutum Extract that would raise specific concerns for those who are pregnant or breastfeeding. That said this information is educational and not medical advice. Expectant or nursing mothers should review any new skincare product with their physician before use just to be safe.

The extract itself does not make skin more prone to sunburn and does not interfere with sunscreen filters, so it is not considered photosensitizing. Standard daily sun protection is still encouraged for overall skin health.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Side effects from topical Hydrolyzed Phaeodactylum Tricornutum Extract differ from person to person. The points below outline potential reactions yet most users will never experience them when the ingredient is formulated and used as intended.

  • Temporary redness or warmth after application
  • Mild stinging on very compromised or freshly exfoliated skin
  • Itchiness or dry patches in people with an algae or seafood sensitivity
  • Rare allergic contact dermatitis presenting as a rash or swelling
  • Watery eyes if the product migrates too close to the lash line

If any of these reactions occur stop using the product and consult a dermatologist or healthcare professional for guidance.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 out of 5

Hydrolyzed Phaeodactylum Tricornutum Extract is water based with virtually no residual oils or waxes, so it does not block pores or encourage the buildup of dead cells and sebum. Its small peptides, sugars and minerals rinse cleanly from the skin surface, which is why it earns a non-comedogenic score of 0. This makes it suitable for people who are prone to acne or frequent breakouts.

If a finished product containing the extract also includes heavier plant butters or occlusive silicones, the overall formula could still feel pore clogging. Check the full ingredient list if you are highly sensitive to richer textures.

Summary

Hydrolyzed Phaeodactylum Tricornutum Extract acts primarily as a skin conditioner. After hydrolysis, the microalga releases small peptides, amino acids and sugars that help reinforce the moisture barrier, smooth rough spots and leave skin feeling soft without added oil. Its light texture means formulators can slip it into gels, lotions and serums aimed at daily hydration or soothing.

While not yet a household name, the ingredient has carved out a niche in modern marine inspired skincare where consumers look for fresh, clean alternatives to traditional plant oils. You will find it most often in mid to high end moisturizers and post sun treatments rather than mass market cleansers or body lotions.

Available safety data show a low risk of irritation or allergy for the average user, and no evidence of hormonal or environmental concerns. As with any new product, give your skin time to adjust and perform a simple patch test before full use just to be safe.

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