Hydrolyzed Sesame Protein: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 27, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Hydrolyzed Sesame Protein?

Hydrolyzed Sesame Protein starts with the humble sesame seed, the same seed used for cooking oils and bakery toppings. Inside each seed lies a rich supply of proteins. Through hydrolysis, those long protein chains are broken into shorter fragments called peptides. Manufacturers typically use either enzymes or a controlled acid bath to complete this process, yielding a water-soluble ingredient that blends easily into lotions and creams.

Sesame has a long history in traditional skin and hair care across Asia and the Middle East, largely thanks to its natural oils. As cosmetic science advanced in the late twentieth century, formulators discovered that splitting sesame proteins into smaller pieces gave them new properties such as better penetration and a silkier feel. Since then Hydrolyzed Sesame Protein has been added to a range of modern products.

You are most likely to spot this ingredient in lightweight facial moisturizers, age-defying serums, leave-in hair conditioners, curl-defining creams, rinse-off masks and strengthening shampoos. Because it mixes well with both water and oil phases, it suits everything from clear gels to rich emulsions.

Hydrolyzed Sesame Protein’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This multitasker supports both skin and hair care formulas in a couple of key ways:

  • Hair conditioning – The small peptides coat the hair shaft, boosting softness, reducing frizz and adding a subtle sheen without weighing strands down
  • Skin conditioning – On the skin it forms a light film that helps hold moisture, leaving the surface smoother and more supple while contributing to a soft, velvety after-feel

Who Can Use Hydrolyzed Sesame Protein

Because it is lightweight and water soluble, Hydrolyzed Sesame Protein tends to agree with most skin types, from dry and mature to oily or combination. Its film-forming peptides lock in moisture without leaving a greasy residue, making it comfortable even for easily congested skin. The only group that might need extra caution is anyone with a known sesame allergy, as even the broken-down proteins could still trigger a reaction.

This ingredient is plant derived, so it is suitable for both vegans and vegetarians. No animal by-products are involved in the hydrolysis process, and it is typically processed in facilities that follow cosmetic-grade standards rather than food-grade animal processing.

Pregnant or breastfeeding users are not known to face specific risks from topical use, and the ingredient is not classified as a restricted substance. Still, this is not medical advice, and anyone who is expecting or nursing should run new skincare products past a healthcare provider to stay on the safe side.

Hydrolyzed Sesame Protein is not photosensitizing, so it does not make skin more prone to sunburn. Normal sun-smart habits, such as using daily SPF, are still recommended but for general protection rather than to counter any special effect from this ingredient.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Hydrolyzed Sesame Protein can vary from person to person. The points below outline potential side effects, but these are unlikely for most users when the ingredient appears in a well-formulated product.

  • Allergic contact dermatitis – rare but possible in individuals with a sesame seed allergy
  • Mild redness or stinging – usually linked to overuse of a highly concentrated formula or compromised skin barrier
  • Scalp or skin itching – more common if the product also contains fragrances or other sensitizers that interact with the protein
  • Temporary buildup on very fine hair – can occur if a leave-in product is applied too heavily, leading to slight dullness

If you notice any persistent irritation, discontinue use and seek guidance from a healthcare professional or dermatologist.

Comedogenic Rating

Hydrolyzed Sesame Protein scores a 1 out of 5. Its peptides are water soluble and rinse off easily so they do not clog pores the way heavier plant oils can. Most formulas use it at low concentrations for a light conditioning film which further reduces the chance of buildup. Because of that low score it is generally a safe pick for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin.

As always, the final product formula matters. Pairing this protein with heavy waxes or rich butters could nudge the overall comedogenic feel higher, while lightweight gels keep things nearly pore-neutral.

Summary

Hydrolyzed Sesame Protein conditions skin and hair by laying down a thin moisture-holding film that feels silky and weightless. On hair it smooths the cuticle which cuts frizz and adds sheen. On skin it softens and helps retain water for a supple finish.

It is not as famous as collagen peptides or keratin but it does appear in a steady stream of leave-in conditioners, serums and light moisturizers thanks to its plant origin and gentle performance.

Topical safety is high, with allergic reactions uncommon outside of sesame-sensitive individuals and a very low comedogenic rating. Still, everyone’s skin is unique so patch testing a new product for a couple of days before full use is always a smart move.

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