Hydroxycinnamoyl Dipeptide-27 Amide: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 27, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Hydroxycinnamoyl Dipeptide-27 Amide?

Hydroxycinnamoyl Dipeptide-27 Amide is a lab-crafted molecule that links hydroxycinnamic acid, a plant-derived antioxidant, with a two-amino-acid chain known as Dipeptide-27. During production the carboxyl end of the peptide is converted into an amide, a small tweak that helps the compound stay stable and skin friendly. The idea of joining these two pieces came from research into natural defense systems found in plants and skin, leading chemists to create a hybrid that could bring similar protective benefits to topical products. Manufacturing takes place through a controlled reaction in water-based vats where the hydroxycinnamic acid is activated then bonded to the peptide, followed by careful purification to remove any leftover starting materials. Thanks to its ability to support the skin’s own barrier and feel comfortable on application, this ingredient now appears in lightweight serums, daily moisturizers, sheet masks and targeted anti-aging creams.

Hydroxycinnamoyl Dipeptide-27 Amide’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This ingredient is chosen by formulators for two main reasons

  • Skin conditioning – it helps the surface of the skin feel softer and smoother while encouraging a healthier appearance over time
  • Skin protecting – its antioxidant-like action assists in shielding skin from everyday environmental stress which can slow the look of premature aging

Who Can Use Hydroxycinnamoyl Dipeptide-27 Amide

Hydroxycinnamoyl Dipeptide-27 Amide is generally well tolerated by all major skin types including dry, normal, combination and oily. Its lightweight feel and water-friendly nature mean it will not add heaviness to oily skin yet still offers a comforting touch to drier or sensitive complexions. At this time there is no evidence that the ingredient aggravates common concerns such as rosacea or eczema, though people with very reactive skin should stay alert to any new addition in their routine.

The molecule is produced entirely in a lab from plant-derived hydroxycinnamic acid and synthetically created amino acids, so it contains no animal material. For that reason products using it are usually suitable for vegans and vegetarians, provided the rest of the formula is free of animal-based additives.

No specific warnings exist for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding, and the ingredient is not known to be absorbed in meaningful amounts. Still, this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should show the full ingredient list of any skincare product to a qualified healthcare provider before use just to be on the safe side.

The compound does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight, so there is no special need for sun-avoidance beyond normal daily SPF habits. It also plays nicely with most routine actives such as niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, vitamin C and gentle exfoliating acids, which makes it easy to slot into existing regimens.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Side effects and reactions to topical Hydroxycinnamoyl Dipeptide-27 Amide can vary from person to person. The points below list potential issues yet they are quite uncommon when the ingredient is correctly formulated and used as directed.

  • Temporary redness or warmth a brief flush may appear in very sensitive skin immediately after application
  • Mild stinging or tingling usually subsides within minutes but can signal intolerance if it persists
  • Itchiness or dry patches rare dehydration response if paired with harsh cleansers or high levels of alcohol
  • Allergic contact dermatitis extremely uncommon localized rash or swelling in people allergic to one of the ingredient’s components
  • Breakouts in acne-prone skin unlikely yet possible if the overall formula is too rich or occlusive for that individual
  • Interaction with very low pH products formulas under pH 3 could destabilize the peptide leading to reduced effectiveness and potential irritation

If any irritation or unusual reaction occurs stop use immediately and consult a medical professional if symptoms do not quickly improve.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0/5. Hydroxycinnamoyl Dipeptide-27 Amide is a small water soluble molecule that leaves no greasy film on the skin, so it is highly unlikely to clog pores.

This makes it a good option for people who are prone to acne or breakouts.

Remember that pore clogging can also come from other ingredients in the same product or from heavy makeup layered on top.

Summary

Hydroxycinnamoyl Dipeptide-27 Amide works as a skin conditioner and protector. Its peptide segment can encourage surface renewal while the hydroxycinnamic acid portion lends antioxidant support, helping the skin feel smoother and look better defended against daily stress.

Although it is not yet a household name it is gaining traction in modern serums, light creams and sheet masks as brands hunt for fresh multitasking actives.

Safety testing shows a low chance of irritation or pore blockage and it fits well into vegan and sensitive skin routines. Still, perform a quick patch test when trying any new product that contains it just to be safe.

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