Hydroxyproline Palmitamide: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 27, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Hydroxyproline Palmitamide?

Hydroxyproline Palmitamide is a lab-crafted compound that combines hydroxyproline, an amino acid often linked to collagen, with palmitic acid, a fatty acid found in palm oil and many plants. The pairing creates a skin-friendly molecule that is both water-loving and oil-loving, helping it blend smoothly into creams and lotions. First investigated in the early 2000s as scientists searched for gentler ways to support the skin barrier, it soon found a place in cosmetic labs thanks to its silky feel and conditioning ability.

Production starts with plant-sourced palmitic acid that is turned into an activated palmitoyl chloride. This reacts with hydroxyproline under controlled heat and pH, forming a stable amide bond. The finished ingredient is then purified, dried and milled into a fine powder or dispersed into a liquid concentrate ready for formulators.

You will most often spot Hydroxyproline Palmitamide in face and neck creams, anti-aging serums, hydrating masks, overnight balms and eye treatments where a soft, cushiony after-feel is prized.

Hydroxyproline Palmitamide’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This ingredient is prized for one main job: skin conditioning. By binding both water and lipids it helps smooth rough spots, supports the skin’s natural barrier and leaves a supple, velvety finish. Over time products containing Hydroxyproline Palmitamide can improve the look of fine lines caused by dryness while giving formulas a rich yet non-greasy texture that users enjoy.

Who Can Use Hydroxyproline Palmitamide

Hydroxyproline Palmitamide is generally well tolerated by most skin types including normal, dry, combination and mature skin. Its barrier-supporting nature makes it especially helpful for dryness-prone or sensitised complexions. Very oily or acne-prone users can still enjoy it but may prefer lighter formulas to avoid a heavy feel.

The ingredient is created from plant-derived palmitic acid and a lab-synthesised amino acid so it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians.

No specific data links Hydroxyproline Palmitamide to problems in pregnancy or while breastfeeding. It is considered a low-risk topical, yet this is not medical advice. Expectant or nursing parents should show any skincare routine to their doctor to be safe.

Hydroxyproline Palmitamide is not known to cause photosensitivity so there is no special need for extra sun precautions beyond the daily sunscreen already recommended by dermatologists.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Side effects from topical use of Hydroxyproline Palmitamide vary from person to person. The issues listed below are possible but uncommon when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.

  • Mild redness or warmth shortly after application
  • Temporary itching or tingling in very sensitive skin
  • Contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to fatty acid derivatives
  • Clogged pores or minor breakouts in those already prone to acne when used in rich, occlusive products

If irritation or any adverse effect appears stop using the product and seek advice from a qualified healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Hydroxyproline Palmitamide carries a comedogenic rating of 2 out of 5. The palmitic acid portion is a long-chain fatty acid that can sit on the surface and, in thicker formulas, may slow natural oil flow. Still, the overall molecule is lighter than pure oils and is usually used at low levels, so most people will not see clogged pores when it is blended into balanced products.

At this rating it is generally fine for those who are prone to acne or breakouts, especially when used in light creams or serums rather than heavy balms.

Formulation style matters. Paired with other breathable ingredients and at concentrations below 3 percent, the risk of congestion is minimal. In very occlusive blends or in routines already heavy in rich butters, the chance of blocked pores rises.

Summary

Hydroxyproline Palmitamide conditions skin by marrying a moisture-binding amino acid with a softening fatty acid. This dual nature lets it hug water while reinforcing the skin’s lipid shield, leading to smoother texture and less dryness-linked fine lines. It also adds a silky glide that makes creams feel plush without leaving a greasy film.

It is a niche ingredient rather than a mainstream star, yet formulators who want a gentle barrier helper often choose it over heavier emollients. You will spot it most in mid to high-end moisturizers that focus on comfort and repair.

Current safety data shows a very low risk of irritation or sensitivity when used as directed. As with any new skincare product, a short patch test on a small area is a smart move before applying it more widely.

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