What Is Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone/Polysorbate 20 Crosspolymer?
Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone/Polysorbate 20 Crosspolymer is a specialty silicone-based copolymer created by linking hydroxypropyl dimethicone with polysorbate 20 using succinic acid as the crosslinking bridge. The result is a gentle water-dispersible silicone that combines the smooth feel of dimethicone with the easy rinse-off nature of polysorbate 20. Silicones began gaining popularity in hair care during the 1950s for their shine-boosting abilities, and chemists have been tweaking them ever since to improve spreadability and washability. This particular crosspolymer was developed to deliver hold and control without the heavy buildup that older silicones sometimes caused.
The manufacturing process starts with dimethicone that is partially modified with hydroxypropyl groups to improve compatibility with water. Polysorbate 20, a sugar-derived surfactant, is then reacted with the dimethicone in the presence of succinic acid, which locks the two ingredients together into a stable three-dimensional network. The finished material looks like a fluid or soft gel that can be pumped straight into a formulation.
You will most often see Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone/Polysorbate 20 Crosspolymer in styling gels, mousses, leave-in conditioners, hair sprays, curl definers, edge tamers and any product marketed for flexible hold or frizz control. It is also used in some conditioning masks and lightweight serums where brands want the performance of silicone but with an easy wash-out experience.
Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone/Polysorbate 20 Crosspolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient serves one main purpose in cosmetic formulas: hair fixing. By forming a thin, flexible film over each strand, it helps set a style in place, giving lasting hold while still allowing natural movement. Unlike stiff resins, the silicone-surfactant combo resists flaking, adds slip during application and leaves hair feeling soft rather than crunchy.
Who Can Use Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone/Polysorbate 20 Crosspolymer
This ingredient is considered non-comedogenic and non-sensitising, so it is generally suitable for all skin types including oily, combination, dry and sensitive. Because it is water-dispersible it rinses off easily, which helps minimise buildup that could otherwise bother very fine or quickly weighed-down hair. No specific skin or scalp type is known to react poorly to it, though anyone with a diagnosed silicone allergy should avoid products that contain it.
Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone/Polysorbate 20 Crosspolymer is produced from synthetic silicone and plant-derived sorbitol, with no animal-sourced raw materials or processing aids, making it appropriate for vegans and vegetarians.
Current safety data indicate that the ingredient is safe for use during pregnancy and while breastfeeding. Still, this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should review any personal care product with their healthcare provider to be certain it fits their individual needs.
The ingredient does not make skin or hair more sensitive to sunlight and it does not interfere with sunscreens or other common actives, so there is no special need for extra sun protection beyond what you already practice.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone/Polysorbate 20 Crosspolymer differ from person to person. The issues below are only potential outcomes and are not expected for the vast majority of users when the ingredient is properly formulated and used as directed.
- Mild scalp or skin irritation
- Contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to silicones or polysorbates
- Eye irritation if the product is accidentally rubbed into the eyes before it dries
- Build-up or a weighed-down feel on very fine hair when used in excessive amounts
If you notice itching, redness, burning or any other discomfort while using a product that contains this ingredient, stop using it and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 0 / 5. Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone/Polysorbate 20 Crosspolymer forms a breathable, water-dispersible film that sits on the surface of hair and skin rather than seeping into pores, so it does not clog them. Its large molecular size and partial solubility in water make it easy to rinse away, which further lowers any risk of buildup inside follicular openings. Because it is almost always used in hair products that are washed or wiped off the skin during showering, facial exposure is minimal. In practical terms this ingredient is considered safe for people who are prone to acne or breakouts.
If a formula combines this crosspolymer with heavy oils or waxes, overall pore-clogging potential will depend on the full ingredient list, not on the crosspolymer itself.
Summary
Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone/Polysorbate 20 Crosspolymer is a water-friendly silicone created to give flexible hold, frizz control and a silky feel without leaving stubborn residue. It achieves this by forming a lightweight film over each strand that locks styles in place yet rinses out easily thanks to the built-in polysorbate segment.
While it is not as ubiquitous as classic dimethicone or PVP styling resins, it has carved out a niche in modern gels, mousses and leave-in sprays aimed at consumers who want clean-feeling silicone performance. Formulators value its balance of slip, shine and easy removal.
Current safety data show a very low risk of irritation, sensitisation or pore clogging, making it suitable for most users including those with sensitive skin, color-treated hair or during pregnancy. As with any new cosmetic product, performing a quick patch test on a small area is a smart precaution before full use.