Hydroxystearamide Mea: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 27, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Hydroxystearamide Mea?

Hydroxystearamide Mea, short for 12-hydroxy-N-(2-hydroxyethyl)octadecan-1-amide, is a waxy substance made from castor or vegetable oils that are rich in ricinoleic acid. Chemists transform the natural oil into hydroxystearic acid, then react it with monoethanolamine to get the amide form used in cosmetics. This tweak gives the ingredient a balanced mix of oil-loving and water-loving parts, making it useful in modern formulations.

The cosmetic world began adopting Hydroxystearamide Mea in the late 1990s when brands looked for plant-derived alternatives to petroleum waxes. Its reliable texture control and anti-static properties quickly earned it a spot in hair conditioners, leave-in sprays, styling creams, body lotions, face masks, rich moisturizers and even some color cosmetics like cream blushes.

Hydroxystearamide Mea’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This ingredient brings two main technical benefits to a formula

  • Antistatic – Helps reduce the buildup of static electricity on hair or skin, so strands lay smoother and are easier to comb while fabrics or brushes glide without crackling
  • Viscosity controlling – Adds thickness or a creamy feel to liquids and creams, helping a product stay stable in the jar and spread evenly during use

Who Can Use Hydroxystearamide Mea

Most skin types can comfortably use products containing Hydroxystearamide Mea. Its balanced oil-to-water affinity means it moisturizes without forming a heavy, airtight film, so it suits normal, dry, combination and even oily skin. Those with very acne-prone skin rarely report issues, though extremely sensitive or highly reactive complexions might prefer to try a lightweight formula first, as the waxy texture could feel too rich in some leave-on products.

The ingredient is sourced from plant oils, usually castor, and no animal by-products are required in its standard manufacturing route, so it is generally considered vegan and vegetarian friendly. Still, ethical shoppers should check for a vegan certification on the finished product to be sure the entire supply chain is free of animal-derived processing aids.

Current safety data show no specific risks for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when the ingredient is used topically at cosmetic levels. Because personal health circumstances vary, this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should run any skincare routine by a qualified doctor to be on the safe side.

Hydroxystearamide Mea does not cause photosensitivity, so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It is also odorless and non-volatile, making it a good option for people who are sensitive to fragrance or strong fumes.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to Hydroxystearamide Mea are uncommon and can differ from person to person. The following points list potential side effects that could occur, but most users will not experience them when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.

  • Mild skin irritation – a temporary feeling of itching, warmth or redness, usually in those with highly sensitive skin
  • Contact allergy – very rare cases of rash or swelling in individuals allergic to castor oil derivatives
  • Temporary pore blockage – a slight chance of congestion on extremely oily or acne-prone skin if used in heavy leave-on products
  • Scalp buildup – possible waxy residue when used in high concentrations in hair care, leading to limp strands until thoroughly washed out

If any unwanted reaction occurs stop using the product and seek guidance from a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 / 5

Although Hydroxystearamide Mea is derived from a long-chain fatty acid its extra hydroxyl groups lower the oiliness and improve water affinity, so it is far less likely to block pores than plain fatty waxes. It is lightly used in most formulas and tends to sit on the surface rather than seeping into pores. People who are prone to acne or breakouts generally tolerate it well but may want to avoid very heavy balms or thick leave-on masks that list it near the top of the ingredient list.

Formulators often combine it with lighter emollients which further reduces any risk of congestion.

Summary

Hydroxystearamide Mea works mainly as an antistatic agent and as a viscosity controller. Its balanced oil-and-water structure coats hair or skin with a thin film that dissipates static charges while adding a smooth creamy body to lotions sprays and styling creams. Despite these useful traits it remains a niche ingredient found more in specialized haircare and richer skincare than in mainstream products.

Current safety assessments class it as low risk with only rare reports of irritation or allergy. As with any new cosmetic it is wise to do a small patch test when trying a product that contains Hydroxystearamide Mea especially if you have highly reactive or acne-prone skin.

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