Illicium Verum Fruit/Seed Oil: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 30, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Illicium Verum Fruit/Seed Oil?

Illicium Verum Fruit/Seed Oil is the essential oil obtained from the dried ripe fruit and seeds of the star anise plant, Illicium verum. The oil is rich in naturally occurring aromatic compounds such as anethole, limonene and linalool that give it its characteristic sweet-spicy scent. Star anise has been traded for centuries as a flavoring spice and household fragrance, and its pleasant smell eventually caught the attention of cosmetic formulators looking for plant-based scent boosters.

The oil is produced by steam distilling the crushed fruits and seeds. Hot steam passes through the plant material, lifts the volatile molecules and then condenses into a fragrant liquid that separates into oil and water. The top oily layer is collected, filtered and sometimes mildly refined before being added to cosmetic bases.

You will most often see Illicium Verum Fruit/Seed Oil in products where a warm, comforting scent is desired, such as creams, body lotions, hand balms and spa-style face masks. It also shows up in lip balms and mouthwashes that lean on natural flavor oils, as well as in invigorating shower gels and hair treatments that aim to give a fresh, toned feel to the scalp.

Illicium Verum Fruit/Seed Oil’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

Formulators value this oil for several reasons tied to its official functions.

  • Fragrance: The sweet licorice-like aroma masks raw ingredient odors and leaves skin and hair care products with a cozy, uplifting scent that lingers lightly after use
  • Oral Care: In lip and mouth formulations the oil delivers a pleasant taste and fresh breath feel while helping keep the formula tasting consistent over time
  • Tonic: When used in body or scalp products it provides a mild warming sensation that can promote a feeling of vitality and well-being, giving the finished product a spa-like touch

Who Can Use Illicium Verum Fruit/Seed Oil

Most skin types can handle this aromatic oil well, including normal, dry, oily and combination skin. Those with very sensitive or reactive skin should approach with caution because the fragrance compounds can sometimes provoke stinging or redness.

The oil is 100% plant based and extracted solely from star anise fruit and seeds, so it fits vegan and vegetarian lifestyles. As long as the finished cosmetic is not tested on animals, the ingredient itself raises no animal welfare concerns.

Pregnant or breastfeeding individuals should be mindful that concentrated essential oils can be more potent than they seem. Current data does not flag star anise oil as a major risk at the low levels used in cosmetics, yet there is not enough research to give a firm green light. This is not medical advice; anyone expecting or nursing should run the product past a qualified health professional to be sure it aligns with their personal situation.

Illicium Verum Fruit/Seed Oil is not known to cause photosensitivity, so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It is also free of common pore-clogging fats, making it a low-risk choice for acne-prone users when used at typical fragrance doses.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Illicium Verum Fruit/Seed Oil vary from person to person. The points below outline potential side effects, though most people will not experience them when using a well-formulated product.

  • Skin irritation or redness, especially on sensitive or compromised skin
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to anethole or other essential oil compounds
  • Eye irritation if the product accidentally gets into the eyes
  • Possible interaction with medicated creams applied to the same area, as essential oils can sometimes enhance penetration
  • Tingling or numbing sensation in the mouth if oral care products contain a higher than usual dose

If any discomfort or unusual reaction occurs, stop using the product and seek medical advice.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 / 5

This volatile oil is made up of lightweight aromatic molecules that evaporate quickly rather than sitting on the skin or mixing with sebum, so it has no tendency to block pores. It contains virtually no fatty acids or waxes, which are the main culprits behind comedogenicity.

Because of this, Illicium Verum Fruit/Seed Oil is generally considered suitable for people who are prone to acne or breakouts.

On the flip side, anyone extremely sensitive to fragrance may still experience irritation, but that is an issue of reactivity, not pore clogging.

Summary

Illicium Verum Fruit/Seed Oil mainly acts as a fragrance, oral care flavor and mild tonic in cosmetics. Its sweet spicy scent masks raw material smells, its pleasant taste freshens breath in lip or mouth formulas and its subtle warming feel adds a spa-like touch to body and scalp products. These effects come from natural aromatic compounds such as anethole, limonene and linalool that vaporize easily and stimulate the senses.

The oil enjoys moderate popularity: it is well known among formulators seeking plant-based scent options, yet it has not reached the superstar status of lavender or tea tree essential oils in everyday consumer awareness. Still, its warm licorice note keeps it in steady demand for winter-themed lotions, comforting balms and natural mouth care.

When used at the low percentages typical for fragrance, Illicium Verum Fruit/Seed Oil is regarded as safe for most users. Essential oils can be potent though, so anyone trying a new product with this ingredient should perform a quick patch test first to rule out individual sensitivities.

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