Illicium Verum Leaf Oil: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 30, 2025
Share:
Inside this article:

We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Illicium Verum Leaf Oil?

Illicium Verum Leaf Oil is the essential oil that comes from the leaves of the star anise tree, a small evergreen native to parts of China and Vietnam. The oil holds a sweet spicy scent thanks to compounds like anethole plus smaller amounts of limonene and linalool. Star anise has been valued for centuries in cooking and perfumery and its pleasant aroma soon found a place in early skin balms and scented waters. Today the leaves are usually harvested then put through steam distillation. Hot steam passes through the leafy material and carries the fragrant vapors into a cooling chamber where the oil separates from water and is collected. You will spot this ingredient in face masks, soothing creams, lightweight day lotions, body washes, bath oils, refreshing mists and even some lip balms or flavored glosses.

Illicium Verum Leaf Oil’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In formulas this leaf oil earns its spot for more than one reason

  • Fragrance: Supplies a warm sweet note that can mask raw material odors and create a pleasant application experience
  • Flavouring: Adds a mild licorice-like taste useful in lip products or toothpaste style rinses where a touch of flavor boosts user appeal
  • Skin conditioning: Helps soften and smooth the skin surface thanks to its light emollient nature while also supporting a comfortable feel after application

Who Can Use Illicium Verum Leaf Oil

Most skin types can comfortably use products containing Illicium Verum Leaf Oil since it is lightweight and does not clog pores. Normal, dry, combination and even oily skin generally tolerate it well but very sensitive or reactive skin could find the natural fragrance molecules irritating, especially in leave-on formulas or if the product is heavily scented.

The ingredient is fully plant derived so it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians provided the finished product is not blended with animal sourced additives.

There is limited safety data for topical use during pregnancy and breastfeeding. While no specific risks have been documented, essential oils can penetrate the skin so expectant or nursing mothers should check with their healthcare provider before adding any new scented product. This is not medical advice and individual guidance from a doctor is recommended.

Illicium Verum Leaf Oil is not known to cause photosensitivity, meaning it does not make the skin more prone to sunburn. It also has a very low comedogenic profile so it should not trigger breakouts in acne-prone users, although formulation and concentration always matter.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Illicium Verum Leaf Oil vary from person to person. The effects listed below are uncommon and most users will not experience them when the ingredient is used correctly in a well-formulated product.

  • Skin irritation such as redness burning or stinging, especially on sensitive skin or when the oil is used at a high level
  • Allergic contact dermatitis presenting as itching rash or swelling due to individual sensitivity to anethole or other constituents
  • Long-term sensitization which can increase reactivity to fragranced products over time
  • Eye irritation if the product accidentally gets into the eyes

If any of these effects occur discontinue use immediately and seek medical advice if symptoms persist or worsen.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1  Illicium Verum Leaf Oil is very lightweight and mostly made of volatile aromatic compounds that evaporate after application rather than sitting on the skin or mixing with sebum. It lacks heavy triglycerides or waxy esters that typically clog pores so the chance of it blocking follicles is minimal. That said, the final rating is not a perfect 0 because any fragranced oil can mingle with rich occlusive ingredients in a formula which might raise the clogging potential a touch.

Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin in most cases.

Formulation concentration and the presence of other comedogenic ingredients will ultimately influence how pore-friendly the finished product is.

Summary

Illicium Verum Leaf Oil gives cosmetic products a warm sweet aroma, a mild licorice-like taste and a softening touch on the skin. It does so through its naturally fragrant molecules such as anethole that scent and flavor formulas while its light emollient character helps smooth the surface of the skin.

The oil is not a chart-topping superstar like rose or lavender but it enjoys steady use in niche scented skincare lip balms and body care where a cozy spice note is desired. Brands that lean toward botanical or gourmand fragrances reach for it the most.

Overall safety is good when used at the low levels common in creams serums and cleansers with irritation or allergy being rare and concentration-dependent. As with any new cosmetic ingredient it is wise to do a small patch test first and monitor your skin before applying broadly.

Was this article helpful?
More from Glooshi:
ADVERTISEMENT
Get all our top headlines in beauty.
Delivered right to your inbox each week. Zero spam, all goodness, opt-out at anytime.
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
Get the latest beauty news, top product recommendations & brand-exclusive discount codes direct to your inbox.
Send good feedback:

All feedback is greatly appreciated, anonymous, and will be used to improve the quality of our articles.

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
Send bad feedback:

All feedback is greatly appreciated, anonymous, and will be used to improve the quality of our articles.

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
Search