What Is Ipdi/Di-C12-13 Alkyl Tartrate/Bis-Hydroxyethoxypropyl Dimethicone Copolymer?
Ipdi/Di-C12-13 Alkyl Tartrate/Bis-Hydroxyethoxypropyl Dimethicone Copolymer is a specialty silicone-based polymer created by linking three building blocks: isophorone diisocyanate, a tartrate ester made from medium-chain (C12-13) fatty alcohols, and a modified dimethicone that carries extra hydroxyethoxypropyl groups. Together they form a lightweight flexible film-forming material that combines the smooth feel of silicones with the conditioning touch of fatty esters. The raw materials come from petrochemical sources and plant-derived alcohols, then go through controlled polymerization where the diisocyanate acts like a connector, bonding the tartrate and silicone segments into a stable network. Originally developed for long-wear makeup in the early 2000s, formulators quickly noticed its ability to create breathable yet water-resistant films, leading to its adoption in a wide range of cosmetics. Today you will spot it in liquid foundations, mascaras, eyebrow gels, transfer-resistant lip colors, tinted moisturizers, sunscreens and even some leave-on hair styling creams that aim for humidity-proof hold.
Ipdi/Di-C12-13 Alkyl Tartrate/Bis-Hydroxyethoxypropyl Dimethicone Copolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient is prized for one core role in formulations.
As a film forming agent it spreads into an invisible flexible layer that locks pigments and active ingredients onto skin or hair. This helps makeup last longer, boosts water and smudge resistance, reduces color transfer onto clothing and keeps skincare actives in close contact with the skin surface for better performance. The resulting film is breathable and lightweight so products feel comfortable rather than tight or sticky.
Who Can Use Ipdi/Di-C12-13 Alkyl Tartrate/Bis-Hydroxyethoxypropyl Dimethicone CopolymerProducts containing this copolymer suit most skin types. Normal, combination or oily skin tends to appreciate its weightless feel and water resistance while dry skin benefits from the light seal that slows moisture loss. Extremely acne-prone users who react to any film formers might prefer a patch of caution as the flexible layer can occasionally trap sweat and oil if cleansers are not thorough. Sensitive skin usually tolerates the ingredient because it has a very low irritation profile yet those with known silicone allergies should avoid it.
The raw materials are synthetic or plant derived with no animal origin so the ingredient itself is vegan and vegetarian friendly. Cruelty status depends on the finished brand’s policies rather than the polymer.
No studies flag it as a concern for pregnancy or breastfeeding. It is considered inert on the skin and does not penetrate deeply however this is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should confirm product choices with a healthcare professional.
The polymer does not cause photosensitivity and can safely be worn under sun exposure. It is stable in light, heat and air and does not interact with sunscreen filters or common actives like vitamin C or niacinamide.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Ipdi/Di-C12-13 Alkyl Tartrate/Bis-Hydroxyethoxypropyl Dimethicone Copolymer vary from person to person. The points below describe possible but uncommon reactions when the ingredient is used at standard cosmetic levels. Most users will experience none of these issues.
- Mild transient stinging especially on freshly exfoliated or compromised skin
- Contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to silicones or isocyanate residues
- Clogged pores or surface breakouts in people extremely prone to acne who do not cleanse thoroughly
- Eye irritation or watering if the ingredient flakes into the eye area from mascara or brow products
- Increased penetration of other actives because the film can hold ingredients against the skin for longer making potent formulas feel stronger than expected
If any discomfort, rash or prolonged irritation develops stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5. The silicone backbone of Ipdi/Di-C12-13 Alkyl Tartrate/Bis-Hydroxyethoxypropyl Dimethicone Copolymer is largely inert and sits on top of skin rather than sinking into pores. The attached fatty tartrate chains are mid-length and lightly emollient yet their concentration in finished formulas is low, so they rarely create the greasy occlusion linked with clogged follicles. Overall it poses minimal risk for pore blockage and is generally fine for people prone to acne or breakouts unless they react to any kind of film on their skin. Extremely heavy or long-wear products that also contain waxes and pigments could tip the balance, meaning the formula as a whole matters more than this single polymer.
Summary
Ipdi/Di-C12-13 Alkyl Tartrate/Bis-Hydroxyethoxypropyl Dimethicone Copolymer is a specialist film former that spreads a thin breathable layer over skin or hair, anchoring pigments, sunscreen filters and actives so they stay put through sweat or humidity. Its hybrid structure blends silky dimethicone segments with conditioning fatty esters, delivering flexible hold without flaking. While not as famous as classic dimethicone or acrylates, it pops up in many long-wear foundations, mascaras and water-resistant sunscreens where comfort and staying power must coexist.
Current safety data shows it to be non-sensitising, non-toxic and stable under normal cosmetic use. Still, everyone’s skin is unique so it is smart to patch test any new product that features this or any unfamiliar ingredient.