What Is Isophorone Diamine/Cyclohexylamine/Isophthalic Acid/Azelaic Acid Copolymer?
Isophorone Diamine/Cyclohexylamine/Isophthalic Acid/Azelaic Acid Copolymer is a synthetic polymer created by reacting isophorone diamine with cyclohexylamine, isophthalic acid and azelaic acid. The result is a long-chain molecule that can form a flexible yet durable film on the skin or hair. The raw materials are petrochemical derivatives that have been refined for cosmetic use, and the finished polymer is a solid or viscous resin that dissolves in specific solvents.
This type of film former was developed in the late 1990s when cosmetic chemists looked for alternatives to older resins that tended to crack or peel. Advances in polymer engineering allowed them to fine-tune the balance between flexibility and resistance to water or oil, leading to wider adoption in color cosmetics and skin care.
Manufacturing involves a controlled polycondensation process where the acid groups of isophthalic and azelaic acids react with the amine groups of isophorone diamine and cyclohexylamine under heat. The resulting polymer is purified, dried and sometimes blended with plasticizers or solvents to improve usability in finished formulas.
You will most often find this ingredient in long-wear foundations, liquid lipsticks, waterproof mascaras, brow gels, nail polishes, sunscreens labeled “water-resistant,” hair styling products that promise humidity control and certain face primers that aim to extend makeup wear time.
Isophorone Diamine/Cyclohexylamine/Isophthalic Acid/Azelaic Acid Copolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In cosmetics this ingredient serves one main purpose:
Film forming: It creates a thin uniform layer that adheres well to skin, hair or nails. This film locks pigments in place, resists smudging, boosts water and sweat resistance and helps active ingredients stay where they are applied. The film can also impart a smooth finish that feels lightweight rather than sticky, improving overall product performance and wear longevity.
Who Can Use Isophorone Diamine/Cyclohexylamine/Isophthalic Acid/Azelaic Acid Copolymer
This film former is generally well tolerated by normal, dry, oily and combination skin because it sits on the surface rather than penetrating deeply. Very sensitive or allergy-prone skin may react to the amine portion of the molecule, so those users should watch for redness or stinging. Acne-prone skin usually does fine with the polymer, although extremely heavy layers in long-wear makeup could feel too occlusive for some people.
The material is fully synthetic and contains no animal derivatives which makes it suitable for vegans and vegetarians.
No specific warnings exist for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is used topically in cosmetics. There is little absorption through the skin and no data linking it to developmental problems. Still this is not medical advice so anyone who is pregnant or nursing should run a planned product past a qualified health professional to be safe.
The polymer does not increase photosensitivity so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. Users should remove long-wear formulas thoroughly with an appropriate cleanser to avoid buildup that might lead to dullness or clogged pores over time.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects from topical use of Isophorone Diamine/Cyclohexylamine/Isophthalic Acid/Azelaic Acid Copolymer differ from person to person. The points below list potential issues only and most people will not notice any problems when the ingredient is used at the levels allowed in cosmetics.
- Mild skin irritation such as itching or redness, especially on very sensitive skin
- Contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to cycloaliphatic amines
- Eye irritation if the product accidentally gets into the eyes
- Dryness or tight feeling when layered heavily in long-wear makeup
- Rare acne flare-ups in users prone to breakouts if the film is not fully removed
If you experience any of the above issues stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5 — This polymer is a large, non-oily molecule that stays on the surface and does not sink into pores, so it is unlikely to block them. The film it creates is breathable for most users, though very heavy layers could trap sweat or sebum on extremely oily skin which is why it does not get a perfect zero. Overall it is considered suitable for people prone to acne or breakouts, provided makeup is removed thoroughly at the end of the day. No special concerns have been flagged in published cosmetic safety reviews.
Summary
Isophorone Diamine/Cyclohexylamine/Isophthalic Acid/Azelaic Acid Copolymer is mainly a film former that locks pigments in place, boosts water and sweat resistance and leaves a smooth lightweight finish. It does this by forming a flexible resin layer that clings tightly to skin, hair or nails while still moving with facial expressions or humidity changes.
The ingredient is not a household name but it shows up quietly in many long-wear foundations, liquid lipsticks, waterproof mascaras, brow gels and humidity-proof hair products because formulators value its balance of durability and comfort.
Current data points to a low irritation risk, negligible skin absorption and minimal comedogenicity so it is regarded as safe for topical use at typical cosmetic levels. As with any new product, a quick patch test on a small area is wise to rule out individual sensitivities before full application.