What Is Isosorbide Dicaprylate/Caprate?
Isosorbide Dicaprylate/Caprate is a plant-derived ingredient made by joining the sugar alcohol isosorbide with medium-chain fatty acids called caprylic and capric acid. The result is a diester that looks like a lightweight oil. Chemists first explored this type of molecule while searching for greener options to replace petroleum-based additives. Over time it proved useful in personal care because it is biodegradable and made from renewable raw materials such as corn sugar and coconut or palm kernel oil.
The production process starts with fermenting plant starches to create sorbitol. Sorbitol is then dehydrated to form isosorbide. Finally, the isosorbide reacts with caprylic and capric acids in a controlled setting to yield the finished diester. The reaction is carefully cleaned up so the ingredient meets cosmetic-grade standards.
You will usually spot Isosorbide Dicaprylate/Caprate in lightweight face and body lotions, milky serums, refreshing gel creams, sheet masks, hair leave-in sprays and some color cosmetics where a smooth flexible texture is important. Because it is clear and virtually odorless it blends well without changing the look or scent of the final product.
Isosorbide Dicaprylate/Caprate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient serves mainly as a plasticiser, meaning it helps formulas stay soft, spreadable and pleasant on the skin or hair. By slipping between other ingredients it reduces brittleness, keeps films from cracking and improves flexibility. This leads to creams that glide on more easily, serums that feel less sticky and makeup that moves with facial expressions instead of flaking.
Who Can Use Isosorbide Dicaprylate/Caprate
Because it feels light and non greasy most people find this ingredient comfortable on the skin. It suits oily, combination and normal skin that needs slip without heaviness. Dry or very dehydrated skin may still want a richer oil or butter alongside it for extra cushioning, but the diester itself will not worsen dryness. Sensitive skin generally tolerates it well as it has no fragrance or known reactive impurities.
Isosorbide Dicaprylate/Caprate is sourced from plants so it fits vegan and vegetarian lifestyles. No animal derived materials are used at any stage of production.
Current safety data shows no specific risks for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when the ingredient is used in topical cosmetics. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should have a doctor review any skincare product they plan to use, just to be safe.
The molecule does not make skin more reactive to sunlight so it is not linked to photosensitivity. It is also stable with common actives such as retinol, vitamin C and AHAs so it rarely interferes with other parts of a routine.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to the topical use of Isosorbide Dicaprylate/Caprate vary from person to person. The points below list potential side effects only and they are unlikely to occur for most users when the ingredient is handled correctly by the product maker.
- Mild redness or irritation on very sensitive skin
- Temporary stinging if applied to broken or freshly exfoliated skin
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis in individuals already sensitised to esters
- Occasional clogged pores or small breakouts in people extremely prone to acne
If any unwanted reaction appears stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5 (low)
Isosorbide Dicaprylate/Caprate is a lightweight diester that spreads thinly and absorbs without leaving a thick greasy residue. Its medium-chain fatty acid side groups are less likely to solidify inside pores than long-chain oils, keeping the risk of blockage low. Lab tests and anecdotal brand data place it near the bottom of the comedogenic scale.
Most people prone to acne or breakouts can use products containing this ingredient without issues, though overall formula and individual skin response still matter.
Because it is usually present at modest levels and works mainly to soften films rather than act as a heavy emollient, its clogging potential remains minimal even in richer creams.
Summary
Isosorbide Dicaprylate/Caprate acts as a plant-derived plasticiser that keeps lotions, serums and makeup flexible, smooth and easy to spread. By slipping between other molecules it prevents cracking, reduces tackiness and boosts the lightweight feel.
While not a household name, it appears more often in modern clean-label skincare because it is renewable, biodegradable and compatible with many textures.
Current safety reviews show it to be low-risk for irritation, allergy and pore blockage, making it suitable for most skin types. As with any new cosmetic ingredient it is wise to patch test a product before full use to confirm personal tolerance.