What Is Isosteareth-200 Linoleate?
Isosteareth-200 Linoleate is a lab made ester that joins two familiar skincare helpers: linoleic acid, a fatty acid naturally present in many plant oils like safflower and sunflower, and Isosteareth-200, a long chain form of polyethylene glycol (PEG) linked to isostearyl alcohol. By bonding these parts together chemists create an ingredient that blends the nourishing feel of plant oils with the smooth glide of PEGs.
The move to PEG based ingredients in the late 1970s opened the door for materials that could keep oil and water mixed without heavy waxes. Formulators soon noticed that pairing a PEG with linoleic acid gave creams a light non greasy finish yet still left skin feeling soft. Over time Isosteareth-200 Linoleate found its way into everyday beauty items because it was gentle, stable and easy to work with.
Manufacturing starts with isostearyl alcohol, usually sourced from vegetable oils. This alcohol reacts with about 200 units of ethylene oxide to form Isosteareth-200. The resulting molecule is then esterified with linoleic acid through a controlled heating process. The final material is a waxy liquid that dissolves well in oil phases and can also help bridge oil and water.
Thanks to its dual nature you can spot Isosteareth-200 Linoleate in face moisturizers, hydrating masks, body lotions, anti aging creams, lightweight serums, cleansing balms and even some sunscreens where it improves spreadability and skin feel.
Isosteareth-200 Linoleate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient pulls double duty in formulas by caring for skin while improving product texture.
- Skin conditioning: helps keep skin soft and supple, supports a healthy looking barrier and can reduce the tight feeling that follows cleansing.
- Emollient: fills in tiny gaps between surface skin cells to smooth rough patches, adds a silky slip that makes creams easier to apply and leaves a light comforting film that slows moisture loss.
Who Can Use Isosteareth-200 Linoleate
Thanks to its light, non greasy feel Isosteareth-200 Linoleate suits most skin types including normal, dry, combination and even mildly sensitive skin. Those with very oily or acne prone skin may want to monitor use because any rich emollient can sometimes add to congestion if a formula is already heavy.
The ingredient is produced from plant derived fatty alcohols and synthetically added ethylene oxide, so it is considered suitable for vegans and vegetarians. No animal by products are involved in its standard manufacturing process.
Current safety data show no specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is used in rinse off or leave on cosmetics. That said this information is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should have a doctor review their full skincare routine to be safe.
Isosteareth-200 Linoleate does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and has no known interactions with typical actives such as vitamin C or retinoids. It can be used day or night without special precautions regarding UV exposure.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Isosteareth-200 Linoleate differ from person to person. The points below outline possible effects though most users will not experience them when the ingredient is correctly formulated and used as directed.
- Mild skin irritation such as redness or stinging
- Contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to PEG based compounds
- Temporary breakouts on very oily or acne prone skin if the overall formula is rich
- Eye irritation if a product accidentally gets into the eyes
If any unwanted reaction occurs stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist for guidance.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5
Isosteareth-200 Linoleate is largely water-soluble thanks to its long PEG chain and it leaves only a thin breathable film on the skin. The linoleic acid part can even help balance sebum. Because it does not build up in pores like heavier oils the risk of clogging is low which earns it a rating of 1.
Suitable for most acne-prone users although people with very oily skin might prefer lighter formulas overall.
As with any ingredient its final comedogenic impact depends on the full product so texture and other oils in the formula matter too.
Summary
Isosteareth-200 Linoleate acts as a skin-conditioning emollient that smooths rough spots locks in moisture and improves the glide of creams lotions and balms. It does this by combining the barrier-loving nature of linoleic acid with the light silky feel of a high-molecular PEG.
While not a headline ingredient it is a quiet workhorse found in a fair number of moisturizers masks and hybrid sunscreens where a non-greasy finish is needed.
Current data show it is low risk for irritation or pore blockage making it safe for daily use by most skin types. As with any new skincare step do a quick patch test first to make sure your skin agrees.