What is Keratin?
Keratin is a tough, fibrous protein found in the hair, nails, and outer layer of skin of vertebrates. It’s a popular ingredient in many cosmetic products, often listed under names like Hydrolyzed Keratin, or Keratin Amino Acids. This ingredient is all about strengthening and protecting, thanks to its high cystine content and its ability to bind with other natural proteins.
So, how is keratin made? Well, in cosmetics, it’s usually derived from the feathers, wool, or horns of animals, where it’s processed into a hydrolyzed form that’s easier for your skin and hair to absorb. Its main gig in products is to act as a protective agent and to reinforce the structure of your hair and skin. When applied, keratin forms a protective layer around the hair shaft, helping to smooth the hair cuticle and increase shine, while also making the hair less prone to breakage.
Who Can Use Keratin?
Keratin is generally safe for all skin types. However, if you have sensitive skin or allergies to animal products, you might want to patch test first or consult with a dermatologist, as the animal-derived ingredients can sometimes cause reactions.
For vegans and vegetarians, keratin might be a no-go. Since it’s derived from animal parts, it doesn’t align with vegan or vegetarian ethics. Plant-based alternatives might be more suitable for those following a strict vegan or vegetarian lifestyle.
As for pregnant or breastfeeding women, keratin is considered safe to use in cosmetic products. It doesn’t have systemic effects, which means it doesn’t absorb deeply into the body and thus is unlikely to affect the baby. However, as with any cosmetic product, it’s always a good idea to consult with a healthcare provider if you have concerns.
Keratin’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
The benefits and uses of Keratin in cosmetics, as outlined in this section, are based on its officially recognized functions according to the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) and the Personal Care Products Council (PCPC). These functions are specifically Hair Conditioning and Skin Conditioning.
- Hair Conditioning: Keratin plays a crucial role in hair care products due to its ability to improve the condition of hair. As a protein that naturally occurs in hair, when applied in cosmetic formulations, Keratin helps to replenish the hair by replacing lost protein. This process occurs because Keratin contains amino acids that can penetrate the hair cuticle, leading to the restoration of the hair’s natural structure. The result is hair that appears smoother and feels softer. Additionally, this conditioning effect helps to reduce frizz, increase manageability, and enhance the overall luster and appearance of the hair.
- Skin Conditioning: In skincare, Keratin serves as a skin-conditioning agent. Its primary function in this role is to help maintain the skin’s hydration, elasticity, and resilience. By forming a barrier on the skin’s surface, Keratin helps to reduce the loss of moisture, which is vital for maintaining skin hydration and suppleness. This barrier not only protects the skin from environmental stressors but also helps to smooth the skin, making it feel softer and appear more youthful. The protein structure of Keratin aids in binding with skin cells, which enhances the skin’s structural integrity and promotes a healthier, more vibrant complexion.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects and reactions to the topical application of Keratin can vary from person to person. While many individuals use Keratin-enhanced products without issue, some may experience adverse reactions.
- Allergic Reactions: Symptoms can include redness, itching, or swelling at the application site.
- Skin Irritation: Some users might notice mild to moderate irritation, including dryness or peeling.
- Contact Dermatitis: This is a form of eczema that can occur from repeated exposure, leading to rash and sensitivity.
- Respiratory Issues: In rare cases, inhaling products containing Keratin during application can lead to respiratory discomfort.
If you experience any of these side effects while using a product containing Keratin, it is advisable to discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare provider if symptoms persist or worsen.
While the list of potential side effects might sound extreme or scary, it’s important to note that severe adverse reactions to Keratin are relatively rare. Most people use Keratin products without experiencing any negative effects.
Given the variability in individual reactions to cosmetic ingredients, conducting a patch test before using a new product extensively is crucial. This simple precaution can help ensure compatibility and minimize the risk of adverse reactions.
Comedogenic Rating
Comedogenicity refers to the potential of cosmetic ingredients to cause comedones, which are skin pores clogged by oil and dead skin cells, often leading to acne. This rating helps consumers identify the likelihood of a product causing acne when applied to the skin. Ratings range from 0, indicating no comedogenic potential, to 5, which signifies a high likelihood of clogging pores.
Keratin has a comedogenic rating of 0. This means it is non-comedogenic and does not clog pores. The structure and function of keratin, primarily as a protective and structural protein in hair, nails, and the outer layer of skin, contribute to its non-comedogenic nature.
Given its rating, Keratin is suitable for those who are prone to acne or breakouts, as it does not contribute to pore clogging.
Conclusion
Keratin serves primarily as a hair and skin conditioning agent in cosmetic formulations. Its main functions include improving the appearance and feel of hair by acting as a protective protein that reinforces the strength and elasticity of hair. Similarly, in skin care, keratin helps to maintain the skin’s hydration, resilience, and an overall smooth appearance.
While not as ubiquitous as some other cosmetic ingredients, Keratin holds a niche but significant role similar to other protein-based ingredients used for conditioning and protective purposes. It has a valid use case in contemporary cosmetic formulations, particularly in products aimed at strengthening and repairing hair and skin.
Regarding safety, Keratin is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics. Its compatibility with skin and hair, along with its non-comedogenic nature, makes it a favorable choice for formulators looking to enhance the conditioning properties of their products without risking pore clogging or skin irritation.