What Is Kojyl Carboxy Dipeptide-23?
Kojyl Carboxy Dipeptide-23 is a lab designed molecule that combines a kojic acid derivative with a small chain of two amino acids. The kojic portion is known for its skin brightening properties while the dipeptide segment helps improve stability and skin affinity. First explored in Japan as scientists searched for gentler alternatives to pure kojic acid, it gained attention when researchers noticed that linking kojic acid to peptides reduced irritation yet kept its benefits. Production starts with fermenting certain fungi to obtain kojic acid, which is then chemically bonded to the dipeptide through controlled synthesis in pharmaceutical grade reactors. The final powder is white to off white, water soluble and easy to add to cosmetic bases. Today you will spot Kojyl Carboxy Dipeptide-23 in brightening serums, anti-aging creams, spot correctors, sheet masks, lightweight moisturizers and leave-on nighttime treatments where a stable yet effective skin tone evening agent is desired.
Kojyl Carboxy Dipeptide-23’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
When formulators include Kojyl Carboxy Dipeptide-23 they seek several key actions that improve the overall performance of a product
- Antioxidant: Helps neutralize free radicals produced by UV light and pollution, which can slow the look of premature aging and keep formulas from oxidizing in the jar
- Chelating: Binds to trace metal ions that might otherwise break down active ingredients or cause discoloration, extending shelf life and keeping textures and colors stable
- Skin Protecting: Forms a breathable barrier and supports the skin’s own defense system, reducing the impact of daily stressors while promoting a more even tone
Who Can Use Kojyl Carboxy Dipeptide-23
Kojyl Carboxy Dipeptide-23 is generally suitable for normal, oily, combination and sensitive skin because its peptide linkage tempers the sting sometimes associated with classic kojic acid. Very dry or compromised skin can still use it but should pair it with a rich moisturizer to avoid accentuating flakiness.
The molecule is synthesized from plant derived kojic acid and laboratory made amino acids, so it fits vegan and vegetarian standards with no animal by-products involved.
Current research has not flagged any specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women using this ingredient topically in the low percentages found in cosmetics. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should review all skincare choices with a qualified healthcare professional just to be safe.
The ingredient does not heighten photosensitivity and can be used morning or night, although pairing with sunscreen is still recommended as part of a solid daily routine. It also plays well with common actives like niacinamide or hyaluronic acid, though layering with strong exfoliating acids may increase the chance of irritation in very reactive skin.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects from topical Kojyl Carboxy Dipeptide-23 can vary from person to person. The points below cover potential issues only and most users will not experience them when the ingredient is properly formulated.
- Mild stinging or warmth in the first few minutes after application, usually short lived
- Redness or blotchiness especially if applied to already irritated skin
- Dry patches or flaking when used in high concentrations without adequate moisturization
- Allergic contact dermatitis in rare cases for individuals sensitive to kojic derivatives or peptides
- Interaction with strong acids or retinoids that can amplify irritation for sensitive users
If any persistent burning, swelling or rash develops discontinue use and consult a healthcare provider.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5
Kojyl Carboxy Dipeptide-23 is highly water soluble and used at low percentages so it does not sit on the skin in a heavy film that could block pores. It lacks the rich oils or waxes that usually earn higher scores which is why it lands at a 1 rather than a zero. In most formulas it poses little risk of causing blackheads or whiteheads.
This rating means the ingredient is generally fine for people who are prone to acne or breakouts.
If the product also contains thick plant butters or fatty esters those other ingredients, not Kojyl Carboxy Dipeptide-23, are more likely to affect pore clogging potential.
Summary
Kojyl Carboxy Dipeptide-23 acts as an antioxidant, a chelating agent and a skin protector. Its kojic acid part helps curb excess pigment while the dipeptide improves water solubility so the molecule can slip into lightweight serums. By grabbing free radicals it fights dullness, by binding stray metals it keeps formulas fresh and by supporting the skin barrier it defends against daily stress.
You will not find this molecule in every drugstore aisle yet word of mouth in brightening and K-beauty circles is growing. Brands that want a gentle alternative to hydroquinone or pure kojic acid are starting to include it in their spot treatments and tone-evening creams.
Current data shows it is safe for routine use with a low chance of irritation when used at cosmetic levels. Still, skin can be unpredictable so do a small patch test with any new product that lists Kojyl Carboxy Dipeptide-23 before adding it to your regular routine.