What Is Laureth-20?
Laureth-20 is a synthetic ingredient made by reacting lauryl alcohol, which is derived from coconut or palm kernel oil, with ethylene oxide in a controlled process called ethoxylation. The result is a clear, water-soluble liquid that behaves like a mild surfactant. Chemically it belongs to the polyethylene glycol family, indicated by the number 20 that shows the average number of ethylene oxide units added to the lauryl alcohol backbone.
Use of ethoxylated fatty alcohols in cosmetics began in the mid-20th century when formulators sought gentler alternatives to traditional soaps. Laureth-20 became popular because it offered good cleansing power without the harshness associated with stronger detergents, and it also helped oil and water mix smoothly in creams and lotions.
Today Laureth-20 appears in a wide range of rinse-off and leave-on products such as shampoos, body washes, facial cleansers, micellar waters, moisturizers, sheet masks, makeup removers, hair conditioners, serums and lightweight sunscreens. Its versatility and gentle profile make it a staple in both mass-market and professional grade formulations.
Laureth-20’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Formulators choose Laureth-20 because it serves more than one practical role in a product.
- Cleansing: As a mild surfactant it lifts away dirt, excess oil and makeup so they can be rinsed off easily, leaving skin and hair feeling fresh without a stripped sensation
- Emulsifying: It helps blend oily and watery ingredients into a stable, uniform mixture, preventing separation and giving creams or lotions a smooth consistent texture
Who Can Use Laureth-20
Because it is a gentle, water soluble surfactant, Laureth-20 is generally well tolerated by normal, oily, combination and dry skin types. People with very sensitive or compromised skin may still notice mild stinging or redness if a formula contains a high percentage, so paying attention to how your skin feels is important.
Acne prone users usually do fine with it because it has a very low tendency to clog pores. Hair products that feature Laureth-20 are also considered color safe since it cleans without excessive stripping.
The lauryl alcohol used to create Laureth-20 is typically sourced from coconut or palm kernel oil, making the ingredient suitable for vegetarians and vegans. Those who avoid animal derived or animal tested ingredients should still verify the finished brand’s stance on animal testing to be sure it aligns with personal values.
Current safety assessments show no specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when Laureth-20 is used as intended in cosmetic products. This is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should run all skincare choices past a qualified healthcare provider just to be on the safe side.
Laureth-20 does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and it has no known interaction with common UV filters, so there is no additional need for special sun precautions beyond daily sunscreen use.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Laureth-20 vary from person to person. The following list outlines potential side effects, but most people will not experience them when the ingredient is used correctly in a well formulated product.
- Mild skin irritation – temporary redness or itching, more likely at higher concentrations or on already sensitized skin
- Contact dermatitis – rare allergic response that can lead to patchy rash or swelling
- Eye irritation – stinging and watering if the ingredient gets directly into the eyes, especially in rinse off cleansers
- Excessive dryness – a tight or squeaky feel when a product is left on too long or used too frequently on already dry skin
- Trace contaminant concerns – poorly purified grades can contain tiny amounts of 1,4 dioxane, a manufacturing by-product that reputable brands remove to below safety limits
If any of these issues occur stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional if symptoms persist or worsen
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 out of 5. Laureth-20 is highly water soluble and rinses cleanly so it tends not to linger on the skin or block pores. Its molecular size is larger than many fatty alcohols and oils that more commonly cause congestion, which further reduces its pore-clogging potential. At very high concentrations in thick leave-on formulas it could contribute to a heavy feel, but the levels used in most skincare or haircare products remain low enough that this is rarely an issue.
Because of this low score it is generally considered suitable for people who are prone to acne or breakouts.
Keep in mind that the comedogenicity of a finished product depends on the full ingredient mix, so the presence of Laureth-20 alone cannot predict whether a formula will be non-comedogenic.
Summary
Laureth-20 serves two main jobs in cosmetics: cleansing and emulsifying. As a mild surfactant it loosens dirt, oil and makeup so they can be rinsed away with water. As an emulsifier it helps oil and water blend into a stable mixture which keeps creams smooth and prevents separation. These dual abilities make it a flexible workhorse in everything from facial cleansers to lightweight sunscreens.
The ingredient remains popular with formulators because it is affordable, easy to incorporate and delivers reliable performance without the harshness of stronger detergents. You will spot it in both mass market and prestige products, though consumers often overlook it because it does its job quietly behind the scenes.
Current safety reviews classify Laureth-20 as low risk for irritation or toxicity when used at typical cosmetic levels. Still, every skin type is different so it is smart to patch test any new product that contains it before full-face or body use just to be safe.