Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root?

Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root comes from the purple red roots of Lithospermum erythrorhizon, a flowering plant in the borage family. Once harvested the roots are washed, dried then finely ground into a powder. Some makers take the process further by soaking the powder in plant based solvents to pull out its vivid shikonin pigments and other skin loving compounds such as naphthoquinones, fatty acids and polysaccharides. The root has a long history in East Asian beauty rituals where it was prized for giving balms and salves a natural tint along with a calming feel on the skin. Today you will see it in modern face masks, soothing moisturizers, anti aging serums, after sun gels, lip balms and spot treatments where a gentle boost of conditioning and a touch of color are welcome.

Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In formulas this botanical serves one key purpose.

As a skin conditioning ingredient, Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root helps soften and smooth the skin surface, reinforces the skin barrier with plant derived lipids and provides a comforting feel that can make drying or active heavy products more user friendly.

Who Can Use Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root

This gentle botanical is generally suitable for all skin types, including dry, normal, combination, sensitive and oily. Its soothing nature makes it especially welcome in routines that lean on exfoliating acids or retinoids, as it can help buffer potential dryness. Extremely acne-prone users may prefer lighter formulas to avoid any added richness from accompanying plant oils.

The powder is plant derived and contains no animal by-products, so products featuring it are usually compatible with vegan and vegetarian lifestyles. As always, double-check the rest of the ingredient list for hidden animal derivatives such as beeswax or lanolin.

Current research shows no specific concerns for topical use during pregnancy or breastfeeding. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should run any skincare product past a qualified healthcare professional just to be on the safe side.

Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root is not known to cause photosensitivity so there is no extra sun-avoidance requirement beyond the daily sunscreen that dermatologists already recommend.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root can vary from person to person. The points below outline potential side effects though most users will not experience them when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.

  • Allergic contact dermatitis presenting as redness itching or swelling
  • Temporary skin staining from the natural purple pigments
  • Mild irritation when layered with strong acids or retinoids
  • Staining of light-colored clothing towels or bedding

If any irritation or unexpected reaction occurs discontinue use and seek advice from a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 / 5
Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root sits low on the comedogenic scale because it is usually added in very small amounts for its pigments and calming compounds rather than as a heavy oil phase. While the root does contain some fatty acids they are present in concentrations that seldom clog pores when the ingredient is properly formulated. The powder also lacks waxy esters that typically raise comedogenicity.

Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin, provided the rest of the formula is lightweight and non-occlusive.

If the extract is delivered in richer balms or ointments the overall product, not the root itself, may feel too heavy for very oily complexions.

Summary

Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root is mainly used to condition skin by softening its surface, supporting the barrier with gentle plant lipids and lending a subtle natural tint from its shikonin pigments. These same pigments bring antioxidant properties that can help calm visible irritation.

The root enjoys cult status in traditional East Asian skincare yet remains a niche, under-the-radar addition in mainstream Western products. When it does appear it is often highlighted in soothing masks, after sun care and tinted balms.

Overall it is considered a safe, plant-based ingredient with a very low risk of adverse effects for most users. As with any new skincare product it is wise to perform a quick patch test to confirm personal compatibility.

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