Magnesium Thioglycolate: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Magnesium Thioglycolate?

Magnesium thioglycolate, also written as bis(mercaptoacetato-O,S)magnesium, is a salt formed from magnesium and thioglycolic acid. Thioglycolic acid comes from simple carbon, sulfur and oxygen building blocks that chemists combine in a lab. When magnesium ions bond with two thioglycolate molecules the result is a white to off-white powder that dissolves in water, creating a solution with a mild sulfur scent.

The cosmetic story of thioglycolates dates back to the 1940s when researchers discovered that these compounds could break the disulfide bonds in hair, making it soft enough to reshape or remove. Over time manufacturers looked for gentler, more stable versions and magnesium thioglycolate became popular because it works effectively at a slightly higher pH than older ammonium or calcium forms, which can feel less irritating on skin.

Production starts with thioglycolic acid, which is neutralized with a magnesium compound such as magnesium oxide or magnesium hydroxide. The reaction forms the magnesium salt, which is then purified, dried and milled into a fine powder. The finished ingredient is shipped to cosmetic labs where it is blended into water-based formulas.

You will most often find magnesium thioglycolate in depilatory creams and lotions that dissolve unwanted body hair. It also appears in professional hair waving or straightening solutions that reshape curls by breaking and reforming internal hair bonds. Occasionally it is included in specialty pre-shave products or callus-smoothing foot masks that benefit from its bond-breaking ability.

Magnesium Thioglycolate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In formulas magnesium thioglycolate serves several roles that revolve around its power to reduce disulfide bonds in hair proteins

  • Depilatory: It weakens the keratin structure of hair at the skin surface so the softened hair can be wiped or rinsed away, leaving skin smooth without the pull of waxing or the nicks of shaving
  • Hair Waving or Straightening: By opening the disulfide bonds inside the hair shaft it allows stylists to reshape curls into waves or straighten strands, then lock the new pattern in place with a neutralizer
  • Reducing Agent: As a mild reducing compound it can adjust the redox balance of a formulation, supporting other active ingredients and helping maintain the desired pH and performance

Who Can Use Magnesium Thioglycolate

Products with magnesium thioglycolate are generally aimed at people who want quick, pain-free hair removal or professional hair reshaping. They can be used on normal, combination and oily skin. Dry or sensitive skin may find the ingredient too strong because it works by breaking protein bonds, which can also strip some of the skin’s protective lipids and leave a tight or stinging feeling.

The compound is made by reacting thioglycolic acid with mineral-based magnesium so it contains no animal-derived materials. That makes it suitable for vegans and vegetarians when the rest of the formula is also free of animal ingredients.

There is little published research on the use of magnesium thioglycolate during pregnancy or while breastfeeding. Because the ingredient acts mainly on the surface and is rinsed away, systemic absorption is expected to be minimal, but data are not sufficient to confirm absolute safety. This is not medical advice; pregnant or nursing individuals should discuss any depilatory or chemical hair treatment with their doctor.

The ingredient itself does not make skin more prone to sunburn. However, freshly depilated or chemically treated areas can be more delicate for a day or two, so applying sunscreen and avoiding intense sun exposure is a smart idea.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical magnesium thioglycolate vary from person to person. The points below outline potential side effects, but most users who follow the product directions will not experience them.

  • Skin irritation or redness
  • Stinging or burning sensation during use
  • Chemical burns if left on the skin longer than directed
  • Allergic contact dermatitis marked by itching, rash or swelling
  • Temporary discoloration or lightening of the treated hair or skin
  • Unpleasant sulfur-like odor lingering on skin or in the bathroom
  • Increased dryness or flakiness on already dehydrated skin
  • Breakage or excessive softening of hair beyond the intended area

If any of these effects occur stop using the product immediately rinse the area thoroughly with cool water and seek medical advice if irritation persists or worsens.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0/5

Magnesium thioglycolate is a water-soluble salt that rinses off completely after use and leaves no oily or waxy film on the skin. Because blocked pores are most often triggered by greasy residues that sit on the surface, an ingredient that fully dissolves and washes away is considered non-comedogenic. For that reason the rating sits at the lowest end of the scale.

People who break out easily should have no extra risk of clogged pores from this ingredient itself, though the overall formula and how long it stays on the skin can still matter. If a depilatory or waving lotion contains heavy emollients or occlusive waxes, those other ingredients might change the story.

Summary

Magnesium thioglycolate is used to dissolve unwanted body hair, reshape curls and act as a gentle reducing agent by breaking the disulfide bonds in keratin. It performs these jobs well because its sulfur group snips those protein links while the magnesium part keeps the molecule stable at the working pH.

You will see it mostly in over-the-counter depilatory creams and in salon waving or straightening kits, not in everyday skincare. That limited niche keeps its popularity modest compared with flashier actives like retinol or vitamin C.

When used as directed it is considered safe for healthy adults, with the main risks being irritation or burns if left on too long. Like any potent hair-removal or chemical service ingredient it deserves respect so do a small patch test before full application to make sure your skin can handle it.

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