MartiDerm is one of those quietly confident Spanish brands loved by dermatologists yet still unknown to some bathroom cabinets on this side of the globe. Its science first philosophy has earned a loyal following, and I have rarely been let down by its fuss free formulations.
Enter Platinum Night Renew Serum. The name alone sounds like it should come with a velvet pouch and a symphony, but behind the shiny title the brand promises a practical cocktail of collagen, hyaluronic acid and gentle acids set to moisturise, regenerate, redensify and firm while you sleep, all while boosting whatever cream you layer on top. Quite the résumé for a single bottle.
I put those claims to the test over a full two weeks of nightly use, noting everything from texture to morning after glow to see if it deserves a place in your routine and wallet.
Disclaimer: this is not a paid or sponsored piece, the product was purchased by me and every opinion here is personal and honest. Skin is unique, so individual results can and will vary.
What Is Platinum Night Renew Serum?
Platinum Night Renew Serum from MartiDerm is an overnight treatment designed to be applied after cleansing as the first step of your evening routine. Overnight treatments are leave-on products that work while you sleep when skin is naturally in repair mode and less exposed to environmental stress. They are typically formulated with actives that may be too strong for daytime or that pair best with the body’s nighttime regenerative cycle.
In this case the formula combines low-weight hyaluronic acid for surface and lightweight hydration, soluble collagen aimed at smoothing and supporting skin structure, and a blend of gently exfoliating acids such as glycolic and lactic acid. The idea is to lightly resurface and hydrate in one step so any moisturizer or treatment layered on top can penetrate more effectively.
Suitable for all skin types, the serum is marketed as a multitasker that targets dryness, uneven tone and early signs of loss of firmness. It is positioned as a booster rather than a standalone fix meaning it is meant to complement rather than replace a dedicated night cream or targeted treatment.
Did It Work?
In the interest of scientific rigor I benched my usual overnight treatment for a few days before starting the Platinum Night Renew Serum, picturing myself in a white coat and goggles while clearing bathroom shelf space. Fourteen nights felt like a fair trial window so I committed to cleansing, patting the serum on damp skin and sealing it with a basic, fragrance-free moisturizer.
Nights 1-3 were mostly about first impressions. The fluid, almost watery texture spread easily and absorbed before I could finish brushing my teeth. There was a faint tingle thanks to the acid blend but nothing alarming. I woke up to skin that felt hydrated yet not greasy though I did notice a touch of early morning tightness around my cheeks that had me applying moisturizer faster than usual.
By night 5 the mild tingling had faded and so had any excitement over dramatic results. My complexion looked a little smoother and foundation sat better but pigmentation spots from a recent breakout stayed exactly where they were. One welcome change: the usual flaky patches around my nose were gone which I credit to the lactic and glycolic acids doing their mini-peel job.
The back half of the fortnight delivered incremental gains. Lines on my forehead appeared slightly softened under bathroom lighting and overall tone looked more even, especially after night 10. Hydration, however, plateaued. If I skipped my richer cream on top, I woke up feeling under-moisturized which tells me the serum’s hyaluronic acid is helpful but not a standalone hydrator.
On night 14 I compared before-and-after photos. Skin texture definitely improved, makeup gripped better and there was a modest uptick in firmness around the jawline. Blemishes were marginally lighter but not to the degree the marketing suggests. In short the serum did most of what it claims yet never crossed into wow territory.
Would I slot it permanently into my own rotation? Probably not. It is pleasant to use and offers a gentle resurfacing-plus-hydration combo that earns it a solid 7 out of 10 but I have actives that work harder and cost less. If your skin is new to nightly acids this could be a graceful entry point but seasoned users may find the payoff polite rather than transformative.
Main Ingredients Explained
The serum reads like a greatest hits album of beginner friendly actives. First in line is propanediol, a sugar derived solvent that drags water into the skin so everything that follows glides on evenly. The glow comes mainly from the quartet of alpha hydroxy acids: glycolic, lactic, malic and tartaric. They loosen the glue between dead cells for a mild overnight peel which is why flakes disappeared so quickly. Glycolic is the smallest molecule of the group so it dives deepest, lactic is larger and pulls in water for extra suppleness while malic and tartaric round out the pH balance.
Sodium hyaluronate sits a few rows down the list yet still earns its place. This salt form of hyaluronic acid is lightweight enough to avoid that sticky film some gel serums leave behind but hefty enough to hold several times its weight in water. The bounce effect is real, just short lived unless you seal it in with a richer cream.
Collagen here is hydrolyzed which means chopped into tiny fragments so it can lie on the surface and create a temporary smoothing veil. Useful, though worth noting it is usually marine sourced so strict vegans will want to skip. Everyone else gets a quick blurring benefit, nothing more dramatic than a good primer.
Sodium DNA makes a cameo as a skin soother and antioxidant, while the polymer thickener keeps the formula elegantly fluid. Fragrance is present but sits toward the bottom so the risk of irritation is low unless you are extremely sensitive. Preservatives come in the form of sodium benzoate and sodium sorbate, both considered gentle.
As for pore clogging potential, none of the listed ingredients carry a high comedogenic rating. Isoceteth-20 can be a 2 on the 5 point scale so if you are acne prone keep an eye on new bumps. Comedogenic simply means the ability of a substance to block pores and trigger breakouts.
Pregnancy wise the low percentage AHAs are generally accepted by dermatologists, yet any exfoliating acid can enhance absorption of other topicals. Out of caution expectant or breastfeeding users should always get the green light from a medical professional before adding this serum to the nightstand.
One last footnote: the formula is alcohol free, which is great news for anyone fighting dehydration or redness, but the inclusion of multiple acids means diligent morning sunscreen is non negotiable.
What I Liked/Didn’t Like
After two weeks here is the straightforward balance sheet.
What Works Well:
- Light watery texture sinks in quickly so layering is effortless and pillow safe
- Gentle AHA blend smooths dry flakes and refines texture without the sting stronger peels can cause
- Pairs seamlessly with heavier night creams boosting their hydration payoff
- Subtle fresh fragrance dissipates fast and did not trigger redness on my reactive skin
What to Consider:
- Hydration is surface level so drier skins will still need a rich topper
- Results unfold slowly meaning experienced acid users may find the payoff underwhelming
- Price sits at the higher end of entry level acid serums
My Final Thoughts
Two weeks in and Platinum Night Renew Serum has proven itself to be the polite dinner guest of my skincare shelf: unfailingly courteous, quietly effective yet not the sort who steals the spotlight. Texture and tolerability are its strengths, gentle brightening its party trick. On the flip side, the hydration ceiling is low and the firming effect is more suggestion than statement. For newcomers to acids or anyone seeking a mild nightly buffer that plays nicely with richer creams, it earns its 7/10. Veterans chasing a bigger wow may prefer something punchier, although I would still mention it to a friend whose skin is trepidatious around stronger actives.
Finding the right overnight treatment is a bit like choosing a mattress: you only notice greatness after a handful of mornings. I have rotated through enough nighttime formulas to give this bottle a fair shake and it sits comfortably in the “pleasant but not indispensable” tier. If it aligns with your budget, texture preferences and sensitivity threshold, you will likely enjoy the subtle refinement it offers.
That said options abound. Nocturnal Revive Cream by Deascal has been my reliable allrounder for months, covering hydration, barrier support and gentle exfoliation in one unfussy formula at a friendlier price. If you crave a plush, bounce-inducing finish the Bouncy & Firm Sleeping Mask by LANEIGE delivers exactly what its name promises, while Medik8’s Intelligent Retinol Smoothing Night Cream steps up the resurfacing game for those comfortable with a low-level retinoid. Prefer a more classical spa-like experience? ELEMIS Pro-Collagen Night Cream wraps the skin in a cushiony veil that rivals a hot stone massage for sheer indulgence. I have emptied each of these and can vouch for their particular charms.
Before you leap into any of the above, remember the unglamorous basics: patch test first, especially with acid or retinol blends, and ease in slowly if you are prone to sensitivity. Keep expectations realistic, maintain diligent sunscreen during the day and know that any glow you gain will need sustained use to stay put.