Melilotus Officinalis Extract: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Melilotus Officinalis Extract?

Melilotus Officinalis Extract is a plant-based ingredient obtained from the green parts of sweet clover, a yellow-flowering herb that grows widely across Europe, Asia and North America. The plant is naturally rich in coumarin, flavonoids and small amounts of tannins, compounds that give the extract its skin-friendly properties.

Sweet clover was first noted in folk beauty routines for its fresh scent and calming action on irritated skin. Modern formulators picked up on these traits in the mid-20th century when herbal extracts started to replace synthetic additives in skincare. Today the extract is produced by drying the aerial parts of the plant, crushing them and soaking them in a gentle solvent such as water or a mix of water and glycerin. The liquid is then filtered and concentrated to create a stable, preservative-friendly solution.

You will most often spot Melilotus Officinalis Extract in toners, soothing face masks, after-sun gels, light moisturizers and eye creams aimed at reducing puffiness. It also shows up in body lotions and fragranced bath products where a mild herbal note is desired.

Melilotus Officinalis Extract’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This extract brings a trio of helpful actions to skincare formulas

  • Astringent – The gentle tannins help tighten the look of pores and remove excess surface oil making skin feel refreshed without an uncomfortable pull
  • Fragrance – Its soft hay-like scent adds a natural aroma to products which can reduce the need for stronger synthetic fragrances
  • Soothing – The coumarin and flavonoids comfort stressed or reddened skin supporting a calmer appearance after sun exposure shaving or minor irritation

Who Can Use Melilotus Officinalis Extract

The extract is gentle enough for most skin types. Oily and combination skin often enjoy the light pore tightening feel while normal skin can use it for its calming scent and soothing touch. Very dry or highly reactive skin might notice a slight tightness because of its mild astringent action so extra hydration may be needed in the same routine.

Because the ingredient comes entirely from the sweet clover plant and the usual solvents are water or plant based glycols it is suitable for both vegans and vegetarians.

Current research shows no specific risk for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the extract is used in a leave-on or rinse-off cosmetic product. Absorption through intact skin is minimal. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should clear every skincare product with a qualified doctor just to be safe.

Melilotus Officinalis Extract is not known to raise the skin’s sensitivity to sunlight so no special daytime precautions are required beyond the normal use of sunscreen.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Melilotus Officinalis Extract differ from person to person. The points below list potential side effects yet most people will never experience them when the ingredient is used correctly in a well-formulated product.

  • Allergic contact dermatitis a rare red itchy rash in individuals who are sensitive to clover or other legume plants
  • Mild stinging or tightness especially on very dry or compromised skin due to the astringent tannins
  • Dry patches if the formula is alcohol heavy or layered without enough moisturiser
  • Interaction with blood-thinning medication is theoretically possible because the herb contains coumarin though the risk from topical use is extremely low

If any irritation swelling or persistent redness occurs stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 / 5

Melilotus Officinalis Extract is water based and contains almost no oils or waxes that might sit in pores. Its active compounds are small molecules like flavonoids and coumarin that rinse or absorb quickly rather than forming an occlusive film. For these reasons it is classed as non-comedogenic and is generally suitable for people who are prone to acne or breakouts.

The only time pore clogging becomes a concern is when the extract is blended into a formula packed with heavier butters or silicones that raise the overall comedogenicity of the product, not because of the extract itself.

Summary

Melilotus Officinalis Extract acts as an astringent, a mild natural fragrance and a soothing agent. Tannins give it the pore tightening feel, its coumarin lends the soft hay-like scent while flavonoids team up with coumarin to calm redness and discomfort.

Although sweet clover has a long folk history the extract is still a niche player compared to bigger herbal names like chamomile or green tea, yet formulators who want a gentle multi-tasker with a built-in scent keep it on their short list.

Topical use is considered very safe with only rare cases of sensitivity. As with any new skincare ingredient it is wise to perform a quick patch test to rule out personal allergies before adding it to your regular routine.

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