Melissa Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Melissa Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract?

Melissa Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract is a botanical ingredient obtained from the aerial parts of the balm plant, commonly called lemon balm. Native to the Mediterranean region and a member of the mint family, lemon balm has a long history in folk beauty rituals thanks to its refreshing citrus scent and calming touch on the skin. Chemically, the extract carries a mix of rosmarinic acid, flavonoids, and volatile oils such as citral and citronellal, all known for their soothing activity.

To produce the extract, freshly harvested flowers, leaves and stems are gently dried then macerated in a skin friendly solvent like water or glycerin. The liquid is filtered to remove plant solids, producing a concentrated solution rich in the plant’s active compounds. This finished extract is typically supplied to formulators as a clear to pale yellow liquid.

Thanks to its mild nature and pleasant scent, Melissa Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract can be found in a variety of leave on and rinse off products. It often stars in calming face masks, daily moisturizers, after sun lotions, scalp soothing shampoos, anti fatigue eye gels and toning mists.

Melissa Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

Formulators reach for this botanical when they want a gentle yet effective plant active that comforts the skin and provides a refreshing feel.

  • Soothing: Helps quiet the look of temporary redness and irritation, making products feel instantly calming on stressed or sensitive skin
  • Tonic: Offers a mild tightening and refreshing sensation that can leave the complexion looking revived and awake, ideal for toners and mists aimed at boosting skin vitality

Who Can Use Melissa Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

This extract is generally suitable for all skin types including dry, oily, combination and sensitive because of its mild soothing profile. Extremely reactive or allergy-prone skin should proceed with caution only if there is a known sensitivity to other mint family plants since cross-reactivity is possible.

The ingredient is plant-derived with no animal by-products or animal testing inherent to its production, which makes it appropriate for both vegans and vegetarians.

No specific data suggest problems for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the extract is used topically and in customary cosmetic concentrations. Still, this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should show the full ingredient list of any skincare item to a qualified healthcare provider before use to be extra safe.

Melissa Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract does not increase the skin’s sensitivity to sunlight, so it is not considered photosensitising. Standard daily sun protection is, however, always recommended for overall skin health.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Melissa Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract vary from person to person. The points below outline potential, though uncommon, side effects assuming the ingredient is properly formulated and used as directed. Most people will not experience these issues.

  • Allergic contact dermatitis – redness, itching or rash in individuals sensitive to lemon balm or other mint family plants
  • Mild irritation or stinging – possible on compromised skin or when the product is layered with strong actives
  • Eye discomfort – watering or stinging if the product accidentally gets into the eyes
  • Heightened sensitivity alongside potent actives – formulas containing high levels of exfoliating acids or retinoids may amplify tingling or dryness

If you notice any of the above reactions stop use and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 / 5 – Melissa Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract is a lightweight water-soluble botanical that contains virtually no greasy lipids known to lodge inside pores. Its main constituents are soothing polyphenols and volatile oils that readily evaporate or rinse away, so they do not linger on the skin surface to form blockages. Because of this, the extract is considered non-comedogenic and is generally suitable for people who are prone to acne or breakouts.

Most finished formulas use the extract at low concentrations alongside fluid carriers like water or glycerin, further lowering any clogging risk. Only when blended into very rich creams stuffed with heavy butters could pore-blocking potential inch upward, and even then the culprit would be the base oils rather than the lemon balm itself.

Summary

Melissa Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract serves mainly as a soothing and tonic agent. Rich in rosmarinic acid and fragrant terpenes, it tempers the look of redness while delivering a light refreshing feel that can momentarily tighten and revive dull skin. These benefits make it a calm yet energizing addition to toners, serums, after sun gels and scalp care.

The ingredient is modestly popular, showing up more in niche natural-leaning formulations than in mass market lines, yet formulators appreciate its gentle profile and pleasant lemon scent. Safety data rate it as low risk for irritation with allergy being the primary but uncommon concern. As with any new skincare item a quick patch test is wise to confirm personal compatibility before full-face use.

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