Methotrexoyl Oligopeptide-59: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Methotrexoyl Oligopeptide-59?

Methotrexoyl Oligopeptide-59 is a hybrid molecule made by linking methotrexate, a well known folic acid analog, to a short chain of 59 amino acids called an oligopeptide. This pairing gives the ingredient the skin friendly touch of a peptide while borrowing some of methotrexate’s affinity for interacting with cells. The blend was first explored by cosmetic chemists looking for ways to deliver peptide benefits with greater stability and has since been refined for topical use only, without the drug related activity methotrexate shows when taken internally.

The manufacturing process starts with synthesizing the 59–amino acid peptide. The finished peptide is then reacted with a controlled amount of methotrexate under mild conditions so only one end of the chain binds with the drug fragment. The result is purified, dried and milled into a fine powder that disperses easily in water based formulas.

Formulators usually add Methotrexoyl Oligopeptide-59 to anti aging serums, firming creams, sheet masks and targeted eye treatments where a lightweight yet active peptide is desired. Typical use levels fall below one percent, enough to condition the skin without affecting texture or scent.

Methotrexoyl Oligopeptide-59’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In cosmetics Methotrexoyl Oligopeptide-59 serves a single purpose.

Skin conditioning: The peptide portion helps maintain a healthy moisture balance, supports a smooth surface feel and can give skin a more supple appearance over time. Its small size allows it to sit close to the skin, creating a weightless film that softens fine lines and leaves the complexion looking refreshed.

Who Can Use Methotrexoyl Oligopeptide-59

Because it is a lightweight peptide with a gentle skin conditioning role Methotrexoyl Oligopeptide-59 suits most skin types including dry, normal, combination and oily. Even sensitive skin often tolerates it well thanks to the absence of common irritants or fragrances, though extremely reactive skin should still introduce any new formula slowly. It does not add extra oil, so acne prone users typically have no clogging concerns.

The ingredient is produced entirely through laboratory synthesis with no animal derived components, making it suitable for both vegans and vegetarians. Cruelty free status depends on the finished brand’s overall policy rather than the ingredient itself.

No specific warnings exist for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the peptide is used topically at cosmetic levels. Absorption through intact skin is expected to be minimal, yet safety data in these groups is limited. This article is not medical advice so anyone who is pregnant or nursing should show the product to a healthcare professional before use just to be safe.

Methotrexoyl Oligopeptide-59 does not increase photosensitivity and can be worn during the day. Standard daily sunscreen is still recommended for overall skin health.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Methotrexoyl Oligopeptide-59 vary from person to person. The following points outline potential side effects that could occur, though most users will not experience them when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.

  • Mild redness or stinging shortly after application
  • Itching or dryness if the surrounding formula lacks sufficient moisturizers
  • Localized rash or hives indicating an allergic response to the peptide or other ingredients in the product
  • Rare cross sensitivity when layered with strong exfoliating acids or retinoids leading to heightened irritation

If any of these reactions appear stop using the product and speak with a healthcare professional for further guidance.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 / 5

Methotrexoyl Oligopeptide-59 is a water soluble peptide added at very low levels, so it does not leave oily residues that can block pores. It lacks fatty acids, waxes or heavy silicones that typically raise comedogenicity scores, earning it a solid zero.

This makes the ingredient a comfortable option for people prone to acne or breakouts.

Keep in mind overall pore clogging potential depends on the entire formula, not just one component, so always check the full ingredient list of a product.

Summary

Methotrexoyl Oligopeptide-59 is a lab crafted fusion of methotrexate and a 59-amino acid peptide. Its main role is skin conditioning, which it achieves by forming a light moisture holding film that smooths texture, softens fine lines and leaves skin feeling supple. The molecule’s peptide backbone helps support surface hydration while its methotrexate fragment improves stability so benefits last longer in the bottle.

Use of this ingredient is still niche, found mostly in select anti aging serums, eye creams and sheet masks from science driven brands rather than on every drugstore shelf. Those who have tried it often appreciate the weightless feel and quick skin softening effect.

Current safety data shows low irritation risk for most users and no links to serious side effects when applied topically in cosmetic amounts. As with any new skincare ingredient it is wise to patch test a fresh product on a small area first to make sure your skin agrees with it.

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