What Is Methylglucose Dioleate/Hydroxystearate?
Methylglucose Dioleate/Hydroxystearate is a plant-derived ingredient made by linking a small sugar called methylglucoside to two fatty acids: oleic acid and hydroxystearic acid. The sugar usually comes from corn while the fatty acids are often taken from vegetable oils like olive or castor. Chemists combine them in a process called esterification, which simply means they join the molecules with heat and a food-grade catalyst until they form a new, stable compound.
Brands began turning to this ingredient in the late 1980s when they were looking for surfactants and emulsifiers that felt milder on skin than the sulfates common at the time. Because its backbone is a natural sugar, it is less likely to strip skin of moisture compared with harsher cleansers. Today it shows up in a wide range of rinse-off and leave-on products. You will see it in facial cleansers, body washes, shampoos, micellar waters, baby washes, moisturizers, makeup removers and even some sheet mask serums where it helps keep oil and water mixed while adding a soft, conditioned feel.
Methylglucose Dioleate/Hydroxystearate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Formulators reach for this multitasker because it performs two key jobs that improve both the feel and stability of a product.
- Cleansing: It acts as a gentle surfactant, meaning it helps lift away dirt, oil and makeup so they can be rinsed off. Its sugar-based backbone makes the cleansing action mild, which is why it is popular in products aimed at sensitive or dry skin.
- Emulsifying: It keeps water and oil evenly mixed, stopping creams or lotions from separating on the shelf. This stable blend gives the final product a smooth texture and ensures every pump or scoop delivers the same balance of ingredients.
Who Can Use Methylglucose Dioleate/Hydroxystearate
This ingredient is considered suitable for dry, oily, combination and sensitive skin because it cleanses without stripping and helps products stay well blended. It is mild enough for children and mature skin as well.
The raw materials come from corn sugar and vegetable oils so the finished compound is free from animal derivatives, making it appropriate for vegans and vegetarians. Most suppliers also certify it as cruelty free.
No research links Methylglucose Dioleate/Hydroxystearate to hormonal disruption or fetal risk, so pregnant or breastfeeding women can generally use it. That said, this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should show any skincare routine to their doctor first.
The ingredient does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and it is stable when exposed to UV, so there is no extra need for sun protection beyond normal everyday use.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical ingredients differ from person to person. The points below outline possible issues, but they are uncommon when the ingredient is used at the concentrations typically found in cosmetics.
- Mild skin irritation such as redness or itching
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis in individuals sensitive to corn or certain fatty acids
- Transient eye stinging if a cleanser containing it gets into the eyes
- Product buildup or a weighed-down feel on very fine hair if used in high-oil formulations like rich conditioners
If any of these effects occur stop using the product and seek guidance from a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5
Methylglucose Dioleate/Hydroxystearate is built on a water-loving sugar that keeps the molecule mostly surface active rather than penetrating deep into pores. It rinses away easily, leaving little residue so it rarely traps oil or dead skin that could form breakouts. Because it can appear in richer creams, a very small chance of pore clogging exists in heavy formulas, which is why it earns a cautious 1 instead of a perfect 0.
In most cleansers, toners or light lotions this ingredient is considered safe for acne-prone skin.
If combined with high levels of butters or waxes its mild occlusive nature might contribute to congestion in very oily skin so checking the full ingredient list is wise.
Summary
Methylglucose Dioleate/Hydroxystearate is a gentle multitasker that cleanses by loosening dirt and oil while also acting as an emulsifier so water and oil stay blended. Its sugar backbone provides mildness and its fatty acid tails give enough slip to leave skin and hair feeling soft.
The ingredient has enjoyed steady popularity since the late 1980s among formulators looking for sulfate-free options, especially in products labeled gentle or suitable for sensitive skin.
Safety data rate it as low risk with only rare irritation or allergy reports. Still, skin can be unpredictable so it is smart to patch test any new product containing this ingredient before full use.