Monascus/Angelica Keiskei Leaf/Soybean Ferment Filtrate: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Monascus/Angelica Keiskei Leaf/Soybean Ferment Filtrate?

Monascus/Angelica Keiskei Leaf/Soybean Ferment Filtrate comes from a blend of three natural players: soybeans (Glycine max), the green leaves of Angelica keiskei also known as ashitaba, and a tiny red mold called Monascus. When soybeans and ashitaba leaves are mixed with Monascus under controlled warmth and humidity, the microorganism digests the plant material, releases enzymes and creates a nutrient-rich fluid. That fluid is then filtered to remove solids, leaving a clear ferment filtrate that is easy to add to creams and lotions.

The filtrate carries amino acids, peptides, simple sugars and antioxidant compounds produced during fermentation. Traditional Asian foods such as red yeast rice use Monascus for its vivid color and health-linked metabolites. Cosmetic chemists noticed that the same fermentation could give skin-friendly molecules and a mild natural preservative effect, so the ingredient made its way into beauty labs in the past decade.

Today you will mainly spot Monascus/Angelica Keiskei Leaf/Soybean Ferment Filtrate in hydrating masks, soothing toners, anti-aging serums, lightweight moisturizers and scalp or hair treatments where a plant-based antioxidant boost is welcome.

Monascus/Angelica Keiskei Leaf/Soybean Ferment Filtrate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

Here is how this ferment filtrate can improve a formula and your routine:

  • Antimicrobial: The ferment creates mild organic acids that help keep unwanted microbes in check which can extend product shelf life and support clearer skin.
  • Antioxidant: Fermentation increases levels of polyphenols and peptides that neutralize free radicals protecting skin and hair from early aging caused by pollution and UV exposure.
  • Hair Conditioning: Plant-derived proteins and sugars form a light film on strands adding softness, smoothness and a subtle shine without heaviness.
  • Skin Conditioning: Amino acids and humectant sugars help bind water to the skin improving hydration, plumpness and overall comfort.

Who Can Use Monascus/Angelica Keiskei Leaf/Soybean Ferment Filtrate

This ferment filtrate is lightweight and non greasy so it suits most skin types including oily, combination, dry and sensitive. Its gentle antimicrobial action can even make it a calming choice for blemish-prone complexions. The only group that should proceed with extra caution is anyone with a known soy allergy because trace soy proteins may remain after filtration.

The ingredient is made entirely from plants and a food-grade microorganism, with no animal-derived components, so it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians.

There is no published evidence that it poses a specific risk to pregnant or breastfeeding women when used topically. That said this is not medical advice and those who are expecting or nursing should have any skincare product reviewed by their doctor just to be safe.

Monascus/Angelica Keiskei Leaf/Soybean Ferment Filtrate does not contain photo-reactive molecules and is not known to cause photosensitivity, but a daily broad-spectrum sunscreen is still recommended for overall skin health.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Monascus/Angelica Keiskei Leaf/Soybean Ferment Filtrate vary from person to person. The following list covers potential side effects yet most users will not encounter them when the ingredient is properly formulated and used as directed.

  • Skin irritation a mild stinging or burning sensation in very sensitive individuals
  • Redness or flushing temporary pinkness that usually subsides after rinsing
  • Allergic response itching hives or swelling especially in people allergic to soy
  • Contact dermatitis rare rash or dry patches from repeated exposure
  • Tint transfer faint reddish staining on light fabrics if a highly pigmented formula is not fully absorbed

If any of these effects occur stop using the product and seek guidance from a healthcare professional or dermatologist.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1/5 This ferment filtrate is mostly made up of water soluble amino acids peptides and sugars that rinse away easily and do not clog pores. There are no heavy waxes or saturated oils that commonly trigger blackheads. A tiny amount of natural pigments or residual soy lipids could theoretically sit on the skin yet the levels are so low they rarely pose a problem. Overall it is considered friendly for acne prone or congestion prone skin.

Because the ingredient can mildly suppress blemish causing bacteria it may even offer a small extra benefit for those managing breakouts. As with any formulation the final comedogenicity depends on the full product blend not just one component.

Summary

Monascus/Angelica Keiskei Leaf/Soybean Ferment Filtrate pulls double duty as a gentle preservative and a beauty booster. Its fermentation process packs the liquid with antioxidants for environmental protection organic acids for light antimicrobial action and plant proteins that smooth both skin and hair. The ingredient is still niche compared with mainstream ferments like kombucha filtrate yet it is steadily gaining traction in K-beauty style serums toners and scalp mists thanks to its clean label appeal.

Topically it scores well on safety with only soy allergic individuals needing special caution. No serious toxicity data have been reported and irritation is uncommon when used at typical cosmetic levels. As with any new skincare step a quick patch test is wise so you can enjoy the perks of this multifaceted ferment with confidence.

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