Introduction
Numbuzin tends to fly a little under the radar in the global beauty chatter, yet those who know the brand often speak of its formulas with the kind of fondness usually reserved for trusted dermatologists. The Korean label has made a habit of giving its products numerical titles that sound more like lab codes than skincare, and No.3 Blue Bio-Retinol Pore Refining Serum is no exception. Quirky name aside, Numbuzin promises complexion-smoothing niacinamide, a next-gen blue bio-retinol to visibly tighten pores and a whisper of BHA to keep sebum in check, all in a formula gentle enough for sensitive types. I spent a full two weeks morning and night patting it on to see whether those claims translate past the marketing copy and into real-world results worth your hard-earned money.
What is No.3 Blue Bio-Retinol Pore Refining Serum?
This water based serum sits in the pore treatment category, a group of formulas designed to target congestion, visible pore size and the uneven texture that often comes with excess oil production. In practical terms that means you layer it after toner and before moisturiser, letting its actives get to work while the skin is still slightly damp.
The blend revolves around 10% niacinamide for tone evening and barrier support, a plant derived “blue” bio retinol meant to encourage a firmer look over time and a mild 0.2% salicylic acid to keep sebum moving out of the pores instead of clogging them. The texture is light enough for twice daily use and the brand positions the formula as suitable even for sensitive skin, thanks to a supporting cast of humectants and soothing extracts that temper the potential sting of retinol and acids.
Used consistently in the morning and at night, the serum aims to make pores appear smaller, balance oil flow and soften discoloration without the downtime often linked to stronger retinoids or high dose acids.
Did it work?
I went full lab coat for this trial and benched my usual pore treatment three days before starting No.3. Very scientific of me, if I may say so, and I figured 14 days was a fair window to see what this blue hued newcomer could actually do.
Morning and night I pressed two pumps over damp skin, waited a minute, then followed with a lightweight gel cream. The first couple of applications tingled ever so slightly around my nose, a hint that the 0.2% BHA was on duty, but there was no redness or flaking. By day four my T zone looked a touch less reflective come noon and makeup slid on more evenly, which I credit to the niacinamide smoothing the tiny bumps that usually catch foundation.
Week one ended with modest wins: fewer midday blotting papers and a softened shadow in the pores on my cheeks. What I did not see was any visible lightening of the post breakout marks along my jaw, though they did look marginally calmer. The real test came in week two when a humid spell usually sends my sebum production into overdrive. The serum held things together better than expected, keeping shine manageable and preventing the lone whitehead that popped up from turning angry. My skin felt balanced, not parched, suggesting the formula’s soothing extras were doing their job.
Still, the promised “tighter” appearance plateaued after about ten days. Pores were a bit less pronounced but not dramatically so and I cannot say the texture payoff rivaled my regular retinol. By day fourteen I respected the gentle approach yet longed for the quicker resurfacing of stronger actives.
So did it work? In parts, yes. Oil control and smoothness got noticeable boosts with no irritation, which is impressive for a product aiming at sensitive skin. However the pore shrinking headline never quite reached headline status for me and the gains did not outweigh the results I get from my staple formulas. I will happily finish the bottle because it plays nicely under sunscreen and makeup, but I will not be giving it a permanent slot on my shelf. Still, for anyone seeking a kinder gateway into the world of retinoids and acids, it is a pleasant place to start.
Main ingredients explained
The serum hangs its hat on three star actives. First up is 10% niacinamide, a multitasking B3 vitamin that helps fade uneven tone, strengthens the barrier and keeps oil production polite. Next is its blue bio-retinol complex, a plant derived retinol alternative spiked with a micro-dose of true retinol. You get gentle collagen signaling for a firmer look without most of the flaking that pure prescription strengths can spark. Finally a measured 0.2% salicylic acid slips inside pores to loosen compacted oil so they appear smaller over time and fewer blackheads form in the first place.
The supporting cast reads like a hydration buffet: glycerin, glyceryl glucoside and pentylene glycol all sponge up water and hold it at the surface so skin stays bouncy. Panthenol and centella extracts bring soothing back-up while copper tripeptide-1 nudges repair processes along. There is also a splash of hydrolyzed collagen that leaves a soft film behind, plus antioxidant helpers such as tocopherol and turmeric root extract that fend off pollution-driven dullness.
Vegans may want to skip this one because the collagen and lecithin are typically animal sourced, though vegetarians who do not mind marine or bovine derivatives could be comfortable. A quick word on pore safety: caprylic/capric triglyceride and macadamia seed oil carry moderate comedogenic ratings which means they can clog pores on some acne-prone users, yet the low percentages here and the balancing salicylic acid kept my own congestion in check.
Expectant or nursing users should tread carefully. Even though the retinol level is low dermatologists usually advise avoiding vitamin A derivatives during pregnancy so a chat with a doctor is the safest route.
One last note worth flagging is the formula’s shy use of fragrance. The ingredient list is free from added parfum which makes the serum a calmer option for reactive noses and skins alike.
What I liked/didn’t like
Here is the quick rundown of the pros and the trade offs I noticed.
What works well:
- Gentle formula delivers oil control and subtle smoothing without triggering redness or flaking
- Plays nicely under sunscreen and makeup so it slots into morning routines with no pilling
- Fragrance free and backed by soothing extracts making it a safer bet for reactive or sensitive skin
What to consider:
- Pore tightening and spot fading remain modest so results may feel slow for seasoned retinol users
- Light hit of salicylic acid helps but those with stubborn congestion might need a stronger BHA
- Contains a few mildly comedogenic oils that may not suit very acne prone complexions
My final thoughts
A good pore treatment earns its place by striking that careful balance between keeping oil in check and respecting the skin barrier. After two weeks of side-by-side action with some of my long-time staples I feel I gave Numbuzin’s No.3 a fair run and landed at a solid 7.5 out of 10. The serum shines for beginners or anyone whose skin sulks at stronger retinoids. If you mostly battle midday shine and want a gentler gateway into the world of niacinamide-plus-retinol hybrids it is an easy yes. If you are chasing dramatic pore blurring or lightning-fast hyperpigmentation fading you will probably want more muscle than this formula delivers.
Would I recommend it to a friend? Yes, but with the caveat that patience is mandatory and expectations should sit at “noticeably smoother” rather than “airbrushed.” I was impressed by how calmly it behaved during that humid spell though I will personally rotate it as a maintenance option rather than a hero treatment.
For readers hunting alternatives I have road-tested a few worth noting. Deascal’s Poreless Perfection Serum is the reliable all-rounder that consistently reins in oil and visible pores across every skin type I throw it at and the price is refreshingly sensible. Caudalie’s Vinopure Natural Salicylic Acid Pore Minimising Serum leans on botanical salicylic acid for a slightly zestier exfoliation hit without upsetting sensitive skin. Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Pore Perfecting & Refining Serum delivers quicker textural refinement thanks to its multi-acid blend though you will feel a mild tingle. Finally StriVectin’s Super Shrink Pore Minimizing Serum sits somewhere in the middle delivering steady pore tightness with a pleasant, weightless finish.
Before you dive in a quick PSA from your over-protective reviewer: patch test any new serum along the jaw or behind the ear for a couple of days, especially if you have reactive skin. Remember improvements in pore size and texture are maintained only with ongoing use so keep the routine steady for lasting results.