What Is Myristic Acid?
Myristic acid, also called tetradecanoic acid, is a saturated fatty acid made of 14 carbon atoms. It occurs naturally in several plant and animal fats, most famously in nutmeg seed from which it gets its name. You will also find it in coconut oil, palm kernel oil and dairy fat.
Chemists first isolated myristic acid from nutmeg in the mid-1800s. As soap making and later modern skincare developed, formulators noticed that this medium-chain fatty acid helped create a rich, stable lather and softened the feel of cleansing bars. Over time it became a regular fixture in soaps, facial cleansers and shaving creams. Today, producers typically obtain myristic acid by hydrolyzing natural fats to split the fatty acids from glycerin, then separating the 14-carbon fraction by distillation. A final purification step gives the white, waxy flakes or beads seen in ingredient labs.
Because it mixes well with both oil and water phases, myristic acid shows up in a wide range of products: face washes, body washes, foaming masks, lightweight moisturizers, sunscreens, makeup removers, shampoo bars and even some color cosmetics like mascara where it helps keep pigment evenly dispersed.
Myristic Acid’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In formulas myristic acid serves three main roles that improve product performance and user experience:
- Cleansing: When neutralized with an alkaline base it turns into a soap that lifts away dirt, excess oil and makeup while producing a creamy lather that rinses off easily.
- Perfuming: It carries a faint nutty scent and can help stabilize added fragrance oils so the end product smells pleasant and consistent over time.
- Emulsifying: Its fatty chain helps oil and water stay blended, preventing separation and giving lotions or creams a smooth, uniform texture.
Who Can Use Myristic Acid
Myristic acid suits most normal oily and combination skin types because it lifts excess oil without leaving a heavy film. Dry or very sensitive skin can find it a little stripping since it removes natural lipids faster than they are replaced so pairing it with a rich moisturizer is advised. Those prone to fungal acne sometimes avoid certain fatty acids yet the 14-carbon chain in myristic acid is generally considered low risk.
When sourced from coconut or palm kernel oil, myristic acid is vegan friendly. Some older or specialty supplies may come from dairy fat so strict vegans should confirm the origin with the brand. Vegetarians do not usually need to double-check.
There is no evidence that topical myristic acid poses extra risk during pregnancy or breastfeeding. The molecule stays on the skin’s surface and is already present in many foods. This is not medical advice and anyone pregnant or nursing should run all skincare choices past a doctor just to be safe.
Myristic acid does not cause photosensitivity so no special sun precautions are needed beyond everyday SPF habits. It also plays well with common actives like niacinamide retinol and vitamin C.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects from topical myristic acid vary from person to person. The points below list potential reactions yet most users will not experience them when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.
- Dryness or tightness – its strong cleansing action can remove too much oil on already dry skin
- Redness or irritation – sensitive skin might react to the fatty acid or to the high pH soap made from it
- Breakouts – clog-prone skin could see pimples if a rich formula containing myristic acid is not rinsed thoroughly
- Contact allergy – rare cases of allergic dermatitis have been noted in the literature
If any of these effects occur discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 3 / 5
Myristic acid sits in the middle of the scale because its 14-carbon chain can solidify in pores and mix with sebum, especially at higher percentages or in rich leave-on products. In rinse-off cleansers the contact time is short so the risk drops, but lotions or creams containing a lot of it may trigger bumps on easily congested skin.
Acne-prone users should approach with caution and favor formulas where myristic acid is lower on the ingredient list or designed to be washed off.
Formulation style matters. A well-balanced product that blends myristic acid with lightweight esters and humectants usually feels less heavy and behaves better on breakout-prone skin.
Summary
Myristic acid acts as a cleanser, mild fragrance stabilizer and oil-in-water emulsifier. It saponifies with alkaline bases to lift dirt and oil, its faint nutty aroma rounds out fragrances and its fatty chain helps oil and water stay evenly mixed so textures feel smooth.
The ingredient is a workhorse in classic soap bases, foaming face washes and shaving creams so it is widely used though it gets less spotlight than trendier actives. Most people tolerate it well, yet its moderate comedogenic rating means some may see breakouts in heavy leave-on products.
Overall myristic acid is considered safe for topical use with few allergy reports. As with any new skincare product, perform a simple patch test first to make sure your skin agrees with the formula.