What Is Myristoyl Lactylic Acid?
Myristoyl Lactylic Acid is a specialty ingredient created by linking lactic acid, a mild alpha-hydroxy acid, with myristic acid, a fatty acid commonly found in nut and seed oils. The result is a molecule that carries traits from both families: the water-loving side of lactic acid and the oil-loving chain of myristic acid. This split personality is what makes it useful in skin and hair care.
The compound was first explored in the mid-20th century when chemists searched for gentler cleansing agents than traditional soaps. By reacting myristic acid chloride with a neutralized form of lactic acid, they produced a biodegradable surfactant that performed well in hard water. Today the reaction is carried out in controlled reactors where temperature and pH are tightly monitored, followed by purification and spray-drying into a fine powder or flakes.
You will spot Myristoyl Lactylic Acid in a range of rinse-off and leave-on formulas. Facial cleansers, body washes, micellar waters and mild shampoos use it for its soft lather and skin-friendly pH. It also shows up in moisturizers, sheet masks and lightweight lotions where it acts as a helper ingredient that keeps oil and water blended smoothly.
Myristoyl Lactylic Acid’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient earns its place on an ingredient list by doing two main jobs:
- Cleansing: Its surfactant action lifts away dirt, oil and make-up without stripping the skin’s natural barrier, giving a gentle cleanse that suits sensitive or dry skin types.
- Emulsifying: It helps oil and water stay mixed, so creams and lotions have a stable, even texture and feel light rather than greasy.
Who Can Use Myristoyl Lactylic Acid
Thanks to its gentle cleansing profile and balanced pH, Myristoyl Lactylic Acid is generally well tolerated by normal, dry, oily and combination skin. Its mild action makes it a handy option for sensitive skin too, provided the rest of the formula is free of harsh additives. Extremely compromised or broken skin could feel a slight sting because the molecule still has a tiny bit of acidity from its lactic side.
The ingredient is synthesised from plant-derived fatty acids and ferment-origin lactic acid, so it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians. No animal by-products are used in standard manufacturing and it is not known to be tested on animals when sourced from reputable suppliers.
Available safety data show no specific risks for pregnancy or breastfeeding. Still, this is not medical advice; anyone who is pregnant or nursing should run new skincare products past a qualified doctor to be on the safe side.
Unlike many alpha-hydroxy acids, Myristoyl Lactylic Acid does not exfoliate the skin so it does not increase photosensitivity. Daily sunscreen is always wise but this ingredient does not make sunburn more likely.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects from topical use of Myristoyl Lactylic Acid vary from person to person. The issues listed below are only potential outcomes and are unlikely for most users when the ingredient is properly formulated.
- Mild irritation such as redness or itching
- Temporary dryness or a feeling of tightness
- Stinging on broken or highly sensitive skin
- Eye irritation if the product accidentally gets into the eyes
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis presenting as rash or swelling
- Enhanced absorption of other active ingredients which could intensify their effects
If any of these reactions occur stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5
Although Myristoyl Lactylic Acid contains a fatty acid tail, it is bonded to lactic acid which makes the molecule more water compatible and less likely to stay lodged in pores. It is often used at low concentrations and is frequently found in rinse-off products, further limiting pore blockage. For these reasons it sits near the bottom of the comedogenic scale.
Most people prone to acne or breakouts can use products containing this ingredient without added concern.
Keep in mind that the final formula still matters; very heavy creams packed with other rich lipids could overwhelm oily skin even if this single ingredient is low risk.
Summary
Myristoyl Lactylic Acid works as a gentle cleanser and an emulsifier. Its split water-loving and oil-loving structure lets it lift away debris while also helping oil and water blend smoothly so lotions stay uniform and lightweight.
It remains a niche ingredient rather than a blockbuster, showing up mostly in sensitive-skin cleansers and lightweight moisturizers where formulators want mildness and good texture without resorting to harsher surfactants.
Current safety data rate it as low risk with minimal irritation potential. Still, skin can be unpredictable so it is wise to patch test any new product that features this or any other unfamiliar ingredient.