Myristoyl/Pca Chitin: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Myristoyl/Pca Chitin?

Myristoyl/PCA Chitin is a specialty form of chitosan, a polymer that comes from chitin, the natural substance that makes up the shells of shrimp, crab and other crustaceans. To create this ingredient, chemists start with chitosan then react it with myristic acid, a fatty acid typically sourced from coconut or palm oil, along with a small amount of acetic acid. This combination links moisturizing fatty chains and the humectant pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) to the chitosan backbone, producing a water dispersible powder with a silky feel.

Chitosan first appeared in cosmetics in the 1980s after researchers noticed its film-forming and moisture retaining qualities. Over time formulators looked for ways to boost those qualities and improve solubility. Attaching myristic acid and PCA created Myristoyl/PCA Chitin, which offers better compatibility with modern emulsions and clear gels.

The ingredient is usually manufactured in a controlled aqueous reaction where temperature and pH are carefully adjusted to attach the fatty and PCA groups without breaking down the chitosan. After the reaction, the material is filtered, washed to remove impurities then spray-dried into a fine powder.

You will most often see Myristoyl/PCA Chitin in leave-on skin care such as moisturizers, anti aging serums, sheet masks and soothing after-sun products. Its pleasant skin feel has also made it popular in lightweight lotions, color cosmetics and some premium body creams.

Myristoyl/Pca Chitin’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In formulas, Myristoyl/PCA Chitin serves one main purpose: skin conditioning. It forms a light, breathable film that helps lock in water, leaving skin feeling smoother and softer. The attached myristic acid adds a subtle emollient touch while PCA attracts moisture from the environment. Together these actions can improve immediate hydration, enhance the product’s spreadability and give the finished formula a more luxurious afterfeel.

Who Can Use Myristoyl/Pca Chitin

Because it combines lightweight hydration with a breathable finish, Myristoyl/PCA Chitin suits most skin types including dry, normal, combination and even slightly oily skin that benefits from a non-greasy moisture boost. Those with very oily skin may find richer formulas containing this ingredient feel too emollient if the rest of the recipe is heavy. Sensitive skin generally tolerates it well, though anyone with a known shellfish allergy should approach with caution since the raw material is derived from crustacean shells.

Vegans and many vegetarians will avoid this ingredient as it originates from animal sources. Although chitosan is processed and purified, it is not plant sourced which makes it incompatible with strict plant-based standards.

No specific warnings link Myristoyl/PCA Chitin to pregnancy or breastfeeding issues. It sits on the skin surface and is not expected to penetrate deeply. Still, this is not medical advice; expecting or nursing mothers should review any new skincare product with their physician to be safe.

The ingredient does not increase photosensitivity, so sunburn risk is unchanged. Its film-forming nature can actually help support the skin barrier after sun exposure, which is why it sometimes appears in after-sun products. Aside from the animal origin and potential shellfish cross-reactivity there are no notable restrictions for daily use.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Side effects from topical Myristoyl/PCA Chitin can vary between individuals. The points below describe potential reactions but they remain uncommon for most users when the ingredient is properly formulated and used as directed.

  • Allergic response in people with shellfish allergy – redness, swelling or hives can appear shortly after application
  • Mild irritation or stinging – more likely on compromised or freshly exfoliated skin
  • Itching or dryness – rare but possible if the surrounding formula has a high alcohol content or other astringent ingredients
  • Contact dermatitis – very uncommon yet may occur in individuals with hypersensitive skin

If any of these reactions develop stop using the product immediately and consult a healthcare professional if symptoms do not quickly subside.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1/5

Myristoyl/PCA Chitin is a large, film forming polymer that sits on the skin surface and is easily rinsed away, so it is unlikely to clog pores. While it contains a myristic acid group, the fatty portion is chemically bound to the chitosan backbone and does not behave like free oil in a formula. Because of this low likelihood of pore blockage, most people prone to acne or breakouts can use products containing Myristoyl/PCA Chitin without issue. In exceptionally heavy or occlusive creams the overall formulation could still trigger congestion, but the ingredient itself is not considered a high risk culprit.

Summary

Myristoyl/PCA Chitin is mainly a skin conditioning agent that hydrates by combining a breathable film with humectant PCA and a touch of fatty acid emollience. This trio helps lock in water, smooth rough patches and leave skin with a silky afterfeel. It remains a niche ingredient rather than a mainstream star, yet formulators who want a lightweight, ocean derived booster often reach for it when building premium moisturizers and soothing treatments.

Topically it is viewed as very safe for the average user, with shellfish allergy being the primary concern. As with any new cosmetic ingredient it is wise to perform a quick patch test to confirm personal compatibility before applying a full face or body layer.

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