Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-5: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 30, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-5?

Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 sh-Polypeptide-5 is a lab engineered peptide that merges Hexapeptide-40 with a recombinant version of human Transforming Growth Factor Beta-3. Scientists introduce the human gene sequence into the leaves of Nicotiana benthamiana, a relative of the tobacco plant widely used for bio-pharming because it grows quickly and expresses proteins efficiently. After the plant temporarily hosts or permanently carries the gene, it begins producing the desired peptide chain. The leaves are harvested, the protein is extracted and purified, then the short Hexapeptide-40 fragment is fused to create the final ingredient. Because the resulting molecule matches the sequence of standard amino acids found in human skin proteins, it is easily recognized by the skin’s surface.

The technology gained interest in the early 2000s when plant-based bioreactors offered a safer, greener alternative to animal or bacterial expression systems. As cosmetic brands searched for gentler bioactive ingredients, this plant-derived growth-factor-mimicking peptide was adopted for its skin conditioning potential. Today you can spot it in premium anti-aging serums, restorative moisturizers, firming masks, targeted eye treatments and post-procedure soothing gels.

Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-5’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

The ingredient’s main role is skin conditioning. By mimicking natural skin signaling molecules it helps support a smoother feel, a more even appearance and improved resilience. Formulators value it for its ability to leave the complexion softer, hydrated and visibly refreshed, which is why it often features in products designed to promote youthful looking skin.

Who Can Use Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-5

This peptide suits almost every skin type including dry, normal, combination and oily skin because it is lightweight, non greasy and free of common irritants like fragrance or alcohol. Sensitive skin usually tolerates it well, yet anyone with a known allergy to plants in the nightshade family (tobacco, tomato, potato) should proceed with extra care since the peptide is grown in a relative of tobacco.

Production happens completely in plants so the ingredient is considered vegan and vegetarian friendly. No animal cells, milk proteins or insect material are involved in the process.

There are no specific warnings for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding, and the peptide does not penetrate deeply or enter the bloodstream. Even so this is not medical advice and expectant or nursing mothers should show any new product to their doctor before use to be safe.

The molecule does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight, so it will not cause photosensitivity. It also pairs well with most other actives, from vitamin C to retinol, and is stable across the normal pH range of skin care formulas.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-5 vary from person to person. The points below list potential issues but they are rare when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.

  • Mild redness or warmth at the application site
  • Itching or a slight stinging sensation that fades quickly
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in users sensitive to plant proteins from the nightshade family
  • Temporary dryness if the formula lacks enough emollients or humectants
  • More pronounced irritation when layered with strong chemical exfoliants or high strength retinoids

If you experience any negative reaction stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 out of 5. Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 sh-Polypeptide-5 is a small water soluble peptide with no oily residues or occlusive waxes so it does not clog pores or trap sebum. It disperses evenly in lightweight serums and gels and rinses clean without leaving a film. Because of this profile it is considered suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin.

Since the peptide is usually included at very low percentages and is paired with non-comedogenic bases its impact on pore blockage is minimal even in layered routines.

Summary

Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 sh-Polypeptide-5 is primarily a skin-conditioning peptide that aims to smooth, soften and support the skin’s natural renewal signals. By mimicking fragments of Transforming Growth Factor Beta-3 it can encourage a more even feel and strengthen the surface barrier which translates to a fresher hydrated look.

The ingredient is still a specialty choice found mostly in higher-end or biotech inspired lines but interest is climbing as brands look for plant-derived actives that sit comfortably between nature and science.

Overall safety data are favorable, with low irritation reports and a non-comedogenic profile. As with any new skincare addition it is wise to carry out a quick patch test first to confirm personal tolerance before applying it to larger areas of the face.

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