Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-86: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 30, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-86?

Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 sh-Polypeptide-86 is a lab designed protein that blends a short six-amino-acid fragment, called Hexapeptide-40, with a longer chain modeled after human follistatin. Scientists insert the human gene sequence into the DNA of the Nicotiana benthamiana plant, a relative of tobacco often used in biotechnology. The plant then acts like a mini factory, producing the 294-amino-acid fusion peptide, which is harvested, purified and carefully filtered to meet cosmetic standards. Because the sequence mirrors natural human proteins it can interact well with hair fibers without the need for harsh chemical carriers.

This ingredient is a fairly recent arrival to beauty labs, gaining attention as plant-based bioreactors became more reliable in the past decade. Brands looking for high performance yet sustainable actives turned to transgenic plants to deliver human-like peptides without using animal sources. The result is an eco-minded option that can be manufactured at scale with consistent purity.

You will most often spot Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 sh-Polypeptide-86 in leave-in and rinse-off hair conditioners, strengthening masks, scalp serums and multi-benefit styling creams. A few premium skin care lines also experiment with it in targeted treatments aimed at improving the feel of brows or baby hairs along the hairline.

Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-86’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This fusion peptide is valued primarily for its action on hair

Hair conditioning: The peptide can bind lightly to the hair cuticle, helping smooth rough spots and reduce friction during brushing. By mimicking parts of natural hair proteins it supports a softer touch, improved manageability and a subtle, healthy-looking sheen. Some formulators also note better moisture retention which may lessen the appearance of frizz.

Who Can Use Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-86

This peptide suits all hair and scalp types including dry, oily, chemically treated and sensitive because it is non-occlusive and rinses clean without leaving heavy residues. People prone to protein overload can still use it since the molecule works on the surface rather than penetrating deeply, so it is less likely to make hair feel stiff.

Because the peptide is grown in a plant host instead of being harvested from animals it is considered vegan and vegetarian friendly. No animal-derived enzymes or carrier proteins are used during purification which further supports cruelty-free positioning.

Current safety data does not flag any specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the peptide is applied topically in normal cosmetic amounts. This is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should ask a healthcare professional before adding new products, just to be safe.

The ingredient is not known to cause photosensitivity so it can be used during the day without extra sun precautions beyond the usual recommendation to wear sunscreen.

Color-treated hair, natural textures and protective styles can all benefit from its lightweight conditioning effect, and the peptide is fully water soluble so it works in both rinse-off and leave-in formulas.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-86 vary from person to person. The points below outline potential side effects, though they are uncommon when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.

  • Mild scalp irritation such as tingling or itching, usually transient
  • Redness or warmth in very sensitive individuals
  • Contact allergy presenting as small bumps or rash, more likely if someone has known sensitivities to botanical proteins
  • Watery eyes or sneezing if the product is aerosolized and inhaled by users with plant allergies
  • Product buildup that leaves hair dull if used in excess or not rinsed thoroughly, especially on fine hair

If any unwanted reaction occurs stop using the product and seek advice from a medical professional

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0/5 – This peptide is a large, water-soluble protein that does not contain heavy oils, waxes or fatty acids that could clog pores. Its molecular size keeps it on the surface of skin and hair, so it is unlikely to block follicles or trigger breakouts.

Because of this, Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-86 is considered suitable for acne-prone or oily skin and scalp types when used in standard cosmetic concentrations.

Formulas that feature the peptide may still combine it with richer emollients, so check the full ingredient list if pore congestion is a concern.

Summary

Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-86 is a lab grown fusion peptide that conditions hair by lightly binding to the cuticle, smoothing rough spots, improving slip during styling and helping strands hold moisture for a softer feel and subtle shine. Its plant-based production offers a vegan, sustainable alternative to animal-derived proteins.

The ingredient remains niche, showing up mainly in premium conditioners, masks and scalp serums, though interest is growing as brands look for high-performance biotech actives.

Safety data points to a low risk of irritation or comedogenicity when used topically in typical cosmetic amounts, but as with any new product it is wise to perform a quick patch test to check personal tolerance.

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