What Is Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-22?
Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-22 is a lab-made compound created by linking niacin, also called vitamin B3, with a small chain of two amino acids known as Dipeptide-22. The result is a hybrid molecule that blends the well-known skin benefits of niacin with the targeted action of a peptide. This ingredient was developed as part of the cosmetic industry’s search for milder yet effective skin rejuvenators that fit well into modern clean beauty trends.
Production starts with pharmaceutical grade niacin and a synthetic dipeptide. Through a controlled condensation reaction, the two parts are bonded to form a stable, water-soluble powder that can be measured out and mixed into skincare bases. Because the peptide segment is short, the material stays relatively small, improving its ability to sit comfortably on the skin’s surface and interact with it.
Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-22 made its debut in premium anti-aging lines roughly a decade ago when formulators looked for alternatives to harsher actives like retinoids. Since then it has found a place in a variety of products including lightweight lotions, richer creams, eye treatments, sheet masks, serums aimed at firmness and even post-treatment soothing gels. Its compatibility with both water-based and emulsified systems makes it easy to incorporate without heavy stabilizers.
Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-22’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In topical skincare Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-22 serves one main purpose.
Skin conditioning: The molecule helps support the skin’s natural barrier, promoting smoother texture, improved hydration and a more even appearance. By pairing niacin’s ability to encourage healthy surface renewal with the peptide’s signaling properties, it can leave skin feeling softer, looking brighter and better able to hold moisture.
Who Can Use Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-22
This ingredient is generally well tolerated by all major skin types including dry, oily, combination and sensitive skin because it is water soluble, non-occlusive and designed to be mild. Exceptionally reactive or highly compromised skin may still react to any new active, so extra caution is wise for those groups.
Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-22 is produced from synthetic niacin and an engineered dipeptide, with no animal by-products used in standard manufacturing, so it is typically suitable for vegans and vegetarians. As always, certification from the specific brand is the surest way to confirm cruelty-free and vegan status.
Current safety data show no known issues for pregnant or breastfeeding users when the ingredient is applied topically in normal cosmetic concentrations. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should run all skincare choices past a qualified healthcare provider to be on the safe side.
The molecule does not increase photosensitivity and can be used morning or night without adding risk of sun reaction, though daily sunscreen is still recommended as part of good skincare practice.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-22 differ from person to person. The following are potential side effects that could occur, yet they are not expected for the average user when the ingredient is formulated correctly.
- Mild redness or flushing brief warmth linked to the niacin portion can appear, especially on sensitive skin
- Tingling or slight stinging usually transient and often settles within minutes of application
- Itching or dryness rare but possible if skin barrier is already compromised
- Allergic contact dermatitis extremely uncommon sensitization manifesting as persistent redness bumps or swelling
- Interaction-related irritation potential when layered with strong exfoliating acids or high-strength retinoids in the same routine
If any ongoing discomfort rash or swelling develops stop using the product and consult a medical professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 0 / 5. Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-22 is fully water soluble, contains no oily carriers and sits lightly on the skin rather than forming a film that could trap debris. Its molecular size and polarity mean it rinses away easily and is unlikely to block pores. As such it is considered safe for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin. Be aware that a finished product’s overall formulation, especially if it includes heavy butters or waxes, can change the pore-clogging potential.
Summary
Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-22’s main job is skin conditioning. By pairing niacin’s surface renewal support with a signaling dipeptide it helps reinforce the moisture barrier, smooth texture, brighten tone and leave skin feeling supple. While not as famous as classic actives like vitamin C or retinol it has carved out a modest following in mid- to high-end serums and eye creams that focus on gentler anti-aging.
Current research and cosmetic usage levels show it to be low risk for irritation or systemic effects, making it a safe choice for most users. As with any new skincare ingredient it is wise to patch test a product containing Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-22 before full-face use just to make sure your skin agrees with it.