Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-24: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 30, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-24?

Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-24 is a lab-created peptide that joins niacin, better known as vitamin B3, with a short chain of two amino acids. Chemists developed it to tap into niacin’s well-known ability to support skin health while giving the molecule the stability and skin-friendly feel that peptides can offer. Production starts with fermenting or synthesizing the individual amino acids, linking them into a dipeptide, then bonding that dipeptide with a nicotinic acid group under controlled conditions. The result is a small, water-soluble molecule that can pass through the outer skin layer more easily than plain niacin.

Since the early 2010s cosmetic labs have explored peptides that mimic growth factors to encourage a youthful look. Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-24 emerged from this research as a gentler option that works well in everyday formulas. You will usually spot it in lightweight serums, anti-aging creams, sheet masks, eye treatments and occasional leave-on lotions designed to smooth and brighten the skin.

Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-24’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This ingredient is valued for its skin conditioning action, meaning it helps keep skin soft, smooth and healthy looking. Formulators use it to reinforce the skin barrier, boost hydration and promote an even tone, making products feel more nourishing and leaving the complexion looking refreshed and supple.

Who Can Use Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-24

Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-24 works well for most skin types, including dry, normal, combination and oily skin, because it is lightweight and water soluble. Sensitive skin usually tolerates it since it has a gentle profile, although anyone with a known allergy to niacin or peptides should be cautious.

The molecule is made entirely from lab synthesized vitamin B3 and amino acids, so it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians. No animal derived materials are needed in its production.

Current data shows no specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is used topically in normal cosmetic amounts. This is not medical advice, and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should consult a healthcare professional before adding new skincare products to their routine.

Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-24 does not increase sun sensitivity. Standard daytime sun protection is still recommended to guard against everyday UV exposure.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Side effects and reactions to the topical application of Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-24 can vary from person to person. The list below covers potential issues only and they are unlikely to occur for most users when the ingredient is properly formulated and applied.

  • Mild redness or warmth especially in very sensitive skin during the first few uses
  • Transient tingling linked to the niacin portion of the molecule which usually subsides quickly
  • Dry patches if the formula lacks adequate moisturizing agents for the individual’s skin needs
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in rare cases where the user is sensitive to niacin derivatives or peptides

If irritation or any other adverse reaction occurs stop using the product and seek advice from a qualified medical professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 / 5

Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-24 is a small, water soluble peptide that does not contain heavy oils, waxes or fatty acids known to clog pores. Its lightweight nature means it sits on the skin without forming an occlusive film, so it earns the lowest possible score on the comedogenic scale.

Because of this low rating it is generally considered suitable for people who are prone to acne or breakouts, although the overall formula of the product still matters.

Keep in mind that supporting ingredients such as rich emollients or silicones in a finished product can change how pore friendly the final blend feels.

Summary

Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-24 is a lab made blend of vitamin B3 and a dipeptide that conditions skin by strengthening the moisture barrier, improving softness and helping create a more even tone. It delivers niacin’s skin renewing qualities in a small stable molecule that can penetrate more easily than plain niacin.

While not yet a household name it has been gaining quiet traction in modern serums, eye creams and masks thanks to its gentle profile and versatility across skin types.

Current research and user reports point to a high level of safety with only rare mild reactions. As with any new skincare ingredient it is wise to perform a patch test before full use to be sure your skin agrees with it.

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