What Is Nicotinoyl Hexapeptide-44?
Nicotinoyl Hexapeptide-44 is a lab made molecule created by joining niacin, a form of vitamin B3, with a chain of six amino acids known as Hexapeptide-44. By linking a vitamin that supports healthy skin with a short peptide that can signal skin cells, chemists produced an ingredient that blends the strengths of both parts. It first appeared in skincare research in the late 2010s when formulators looked for new ways to combine vitamins and peptides for better stability and deeper benefits. To make it, specialists build the peptide one amino acid at a time using solid phase peptide synthesis, then attach the niacin group in a carefully controlled reaction. The finished compound is purified, dried, and added to cosmetic bases. You will most often see Nicotinoyl Hexapeptide-44 in anti aging serums, firming eye creams, sheet masks, soothing after sun lotions, and everyday moisturizers that aim to guard the skin against early signs of aging.
Nicotinoyl Hexapeptide-44’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This dual action ingredient supports skin appearance in more than one way.
- Antioxidant – helps neutralize free radicals produced by UV light and pollution which can gradually dull the complexion and lead to fine lines
- Skin protecting – strengthens the skin’s surface by supporting its natural barrier so moisture stays in better and external stressors have a harder time causing irritation
Who Can Use Nicotinoyl Hexapeptide-44
Nicotinoyl Hexapeptide-44 is considered gentle enough for most skin types, including dry, normal, combination and oily skin. Its barrier-supporting and antioxidant properties make it especially appealing for skin that feels stressed, dull or easily dehydrated. Sensitive skin can usually tolerate it since peptides tend to be mild, though anyone with a history of reacting to niacin should proceed with extra caution.
The ingredient is made through laboratory synthesis using plant-derived raw materials so it is suitable for both vegans and vegetarians. No animal by-products are involved in its production.
Current data shows no specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when this ingredient is used topically in cosmetic concentrations. That said this is not medical advice. Anyone who is expecting or nursing should run any skincare product past a qualified doctor to be on the safe side.
Nicotinoyl Hexapeptide-44 is not known to cause photosensitivity, meaning it does not make skin more likely to burn in the sun. Daily sunscreen is still recommended for overall skin health.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects from topical Nicotinoyl Hexapeptide-44 vary from person to person. The points below list potential reactions but they are uncommon when the ingredient is used correctly in a well-formulated product and most users will not experience any issues.
- Mild redness or warmth sometimes referred to as a niacin flush
- Temporary tingling or stinging on very reactive skin
- Itchy bumps or a rash indicating an allergic reaction
- Increased sensitivity if layered with strong acids or retinoids
If any of these effects occur stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional if irritation persists.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 0/5 – non comedogenic. Nicotinoyl Hexapeptide-44 is water soluble and added at very low levels, so it does not leave an oily film that could block pores. Neither the peptide chain nor the niacin component has a structure that typically traps sebum or dead cells inside follicles, which is why formulators regard it as pore friendly. This makes the ingredient suitable for people who are prone to acne or breakouts. Because it is stable in light creams, serums and gel textures, it rarely needs the help of heavy emollients that might raise the overall comedogenic load of a finished product.
Summary
Nicotinoyl Hexapeptide-44 works as an antioxidant and a skin protectant. The niacin part helps neutralize free radicals while the hexapeptide portion can signal skin cells to reinforce the barrier, reducing water loss and irritation. Although still a niche ingredient found mainly in forward thinking anti aging or barrier repair formulas, its dual action and gentle profile are gaining attention from brands looking for modern vitamin peptide hybrids.
Overall safety data are positive. The molecule is non comedogenic, vegan friendly and generally well tolerated, with only rare reports of mild flushing or tingling. As with any new skincare product it is wise to perform a quick patch test before full use just to ensure personal compatibility.