Nonapeptide-38: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 30, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Nonapeptide-38?

Nonapeptide-38 is a lab made chain of nine amino acids: cysteine, leucine, lysine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tyrosine and valine. Because it is synthetic chemists can build each copy under clean controlled conditions, which keeps it free of impurities that might show up in naturally sourced materials. The peptide is put together through a step-by-step method called solid phase peptide synthesis where each amino acid is added in a set order then the finished chain is carefully purified.

Interest in short peptides for skin care grew in the late 1990s as researchers learned that these tiny chains could signal the skin to act younger. Nonapeptide-38 joined ingredient lists in the early 2000s as brands searched for new ways to refresh and comfort skin without heavy oils or harsh actives.

Today you will most often spot Nonapeptide-38 in lightweight anti aging serums, daily moisturizers, soothing sheet masks and focused eye creams where its skin comforting role supports a soft even look.

Nonapeptide-38’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In formulas Nonapeptide-38 serves a single but valuable purpose

Skin conditioning: The peptide helps the surface of the skin feel smoother and more supple. By supporting the skin’s natural barrier it can lessen the feeling of dryness and improve overall softness which makes the rest of the product feel more pleasant and nurturing when applied.

Who Can Use Nonapeptide-38

Because it is lightweight and non greasy, Nonapeptide-38 suits most skin types including dry, oily, combination and sensitive skin. It does not clog pores or add heavy emollients, so acne prone users generally tolerate it well. There are no known skin types that should routinely avoid this peptide unless a specific allergy to one of its amino acids exists.

Nonapeptide-38 is produced entirely in the lab from individual amino acids, not animal tissue, making it appropriate for both vegetarians and vegans. Cruelty free status depends on each brand’s overall testing policy, so check with the manufacturer if this is important to you.

The molecule’s size and stability mean it is unlikely to reach the bloodstream in meaningful amounts, so it is considered low risk for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. That said, research on topical peptides during pregnancy remains limited. This is not medical advice and pregnant or nursing women should run any skincare product past a healthcare professional just to be safe.

Nonapeptide-38 does not cause photosensitivity, so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. Standard daytime sun protection is still recommended for overall skin health.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Side effects from topical Nonapeptide-38 vary from person to person. The following points list potential reactions although most users will never experience them when the ingredient is formulated correctly.

  • Mild redness temporary flushing can appear in sensitive skin
  • Itching or tingling momentary discomfort that usually subsides quickly
  • Stinging may occur if applied to freshly exfoliated or compromised skin
  • Contact dermatitis rare inflammatory response marked by persistent redness and swelling
  • Allergic reaction very uncommon but possible in individuals allergic to one of the peptide’s amino acids

If any negative reaction develops stop using the product and consult a qualified medical professional

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 Nonapeptide-38 is water soluble and used at very low concentrations so it does not leave an oily film or sit inside pores. Its molecular structure is too large to nest in follicular openings and it has no fatty acid chains that typically trigger congestion. For these reasons it earns the lowest score on the 0-5 scale.

This makes Nonapeptide-38 a safe pick for skin that is prone to acne or frequent breakouts.

Because most formulas pair the peptide with lightweight humectants instead of heavy emollients, the finished product is also less likely to feel occlusive, which further reduces the risk of clogged pores.

Summary

Nonapeptide-38 is a lab built chain of nine amino acids that conditions skin by smoothing the surface and supporting the natural barrier so skin feels soft and supple. It achieves these results without adding oil or irritating actives, making it a gentle helper in serums, creams and masks.

While it is not as famous as powerhouse peptides like Matrixyl or copper tripeptides, its mild nature and compatibility with most formulations have earned it a quiet but growing spot on ingredient lists, especially in K-beauty and indie lines that focus on skin comfort.

Current evidence shows the peptide is well tolerated, noncomedogenic and low risk for most users. Still, every skin is unique so doing a simple patch test when trying any new product containing Nonapeptide-38 is a smart precaution.

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