Octapeptide-23: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 30, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Octapeptide-23?

Octapeptide-23 is a lab-designed chain of eight amino acids built from alanine, glutamine, glutamic acid, lysine, proline and serine. Because it is synthetic there is no animal or plant extraction involved, which allows for consistent quality and purity from batch to batch. Peptides began gaining traction in skincare in the late 1990s when researchers discovered that short strings of amino acids could signal skin cells to behave in youthful ways. Octapeptide-23 is one of the newer entries in this field, created through solid-phase peptide synthesis where each amino acid is added step by step to form the precise sequence. After assembly the peptide is purified, freeze-dried and blended into a stable cosmetic-grade powder.

Brands add Octapeptide-23 to products aimed at improving overall skin appearance. You will most often see it in lightweight serums, anti-aging moisturizers, eye creams, sheet masks and leave-on treatments where its small molecular size can sit close to the skin surface and do its work without being rinsed away.

Octapeptide-23’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

Octapeptide-23 is valued for one primary role in skincare formulations: skin conditioning. As a skin conditioner it helps create a smoother, more hydrated look and feel by supporting the skin’s natural barrier and promoting a soft, supple surface. Regular use can translate to an improved texture, a healthier-looking glow and better overall product experience because conditioned skin holds moisture more effectively and feels comfortable rather than tight or rough.

Who Can Use Octapeptide-23

Octapeptide-23 is generally suitable for all skin types, including dry, oily, combination and sensitive, because its primary role is gentle skin conditioning rather than exfoliation or deep resurfacing. People with very reactive or allergy-prone skin may still wish to introduce it slowly, as any new ingredient can pose a risk of sensitivity.

The peptide is produced entirely in a lab with no animal-derived constituents, making it appropriate for vegetarians and vegans who avoid ingredients sourced from animals or animal by-products.

Current safety data show no specific concern for topical use during pregnancy or breastfeeding when the peptide is formulated at normal cosmetic levels. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should discuss all skincare products with a qualified healthcare provider to be certain they are suitable.

Octapeptide-23 does not make skin more prone to sunburn and has no known effect on photosensitivity, though daily sunscreen remains a smart habit for overall skin health.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to Octapeptide-23 can vary from person to person. The issues listed below are potential outcomes and are unlikely for most users when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.

  • Mild redness or flushing
  • Transient itching or stinging at the application site
  • Dry patches if combined with very strong actives or overused
  • Contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to one of the peptide’s amino acids or to other formula components
  • Increased sensitivity if layered with multiple irritant ingredients such as high-percentage acids or strong retinoids

If any of these effects occur stop using the product and seek advice from a dermatologist or healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 / 5  Octapeptide-23 is a small, water-soluble molecule that does not leave an occlusive film on the skin or clog pores. It lacks heavy oils or waxy carriers that can trap debris inside follicles, so it earns the lowest possible comedogenic score.

Because of this 0 rating, the ingredient is considered suitable for people who are prone to acne or frequent breakouts.

The overall pore-friendliness of a finished product still depends on the rest of the formula, so highly comedogenic emollients or thick textures can raise the real-world risk even when Octapeptide-23 itself is non-comedogenic.

Summary

Octapeptide-23 is a lab-crafted string of eight amino acids that works primarily as a skin-conditioning agent, helping skin feel smoother and hold moisture better. By reinforcing the skin surface and supporting a soft, hydrated texture it can give the complexion a healthier, more comfortable look.

Peptides are a familiar category in modern skincare, yet Octapeptide-23 is still a niche player, appearing mainly in targeted serums and eye creams rather than mass-market lotions. Its gentle profile and vegan origin make it attractive to formulators seeking a mild performance booster.

Current data show Octapeptide-23 to be safe for topical use across all skin types, with very low risk of irritation or pore blockage. As with any new cosmetic ingredient it is smart to patch test a product before regular use to confirm personal compatibility.

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