What Is Octydodecyl Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Citrate Crosspolymer?
Octydodecyl Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Citrate Crosspolymer is a lab-made silicone polymer created when citric acid reacts with bis-hydroxypropyl dimethicone then gets “capped” with the fatty alcohol octyldodecanol. This combination yields a three-dimensional network that feels silky yet lightly oily, giving formulas a smooth glide without heaviness. Because every building block is synthetic and carefully purified the ingredient is considered an engineered material rather than something harvested from plants or animals.
Silicone chemistry has been popular in beauty since the 1950s but crosslinked versions like this one appeared later as brands looked for lighter textures. By tying the silicone to citric acid chemists made it more compatible with water-based lotions while the octyldodecanol end lets it mingle with oils. The result found favor in the early 2000s when consumers started asking for moisturizers that felt weightless yet still cushioned the skin.
Manufacturing involves controlled heating where citric acid opens the silicone backbone creating ester links. After the reaction reaches the right chain length octyldodecanol is added to “cap” leftover reactive sites which stabilizes the polymer and improves spreadability. The finished gel-like substance is filtered then delivered to cosmetic labs as a soft paste or pre-dispersed in a carrier oil.
You will most often spot Octydodecyl Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Citrate Crosspolymer in lightweight moisturizers, primers, anti-age serums, sunscreens, masks and foundations where it helps the formula feel velvety and stay put without a greasy film. It also appears in some hair leave-ins and styling creams for added slip and shine.
Octydodecyl Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Citrate Crosspolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient brings two main functions to a formula
- Skin conditioning – It forms a thin breathable film that smooths rough patches softens the surface and helps lock in moisture so skin feels supple for longer
- Emollient – Its silky texture fills tiny gaps between skin cells creating an even feel and reducing that tight dry sensation many people notice after cleansing
Who Can Use Octydodecyl Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Citrate Crosspolymer
This silicone ester suits most skin types including dry, normal, combination, oily and sensitive because it forms a breathable film that does not trap large amounts of water or oil. Very acne-prone users who find any silicone leaves them feeling congested might prefer lighter textures, but the crosslinked structure is generally considered low risk for pore blockage.
The ingredient is entirely synthetic and contains no raw materials from animals so it is appropriate for vegans and vegetarians.
Current safety data show no reproductive or developmental concerns, meaning products containing it are usually regarded as safe for people who are pregnant or breastfeeding. This is not medical advice; anyone expecting or nursing should check all skincare with a qualified healthcare professional.
Octydodecyl Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Citrate Crosspolymer does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and can be used in both day and night products. It also plays well with most active ingredients, fragrances and preservatives without destabilising them.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical use vary from person to person so the following are only potential effects. When the ingredient is properly formulated most users will not notice any of these issues.
- Mild transient redness or warmth in extremely sensitive skin
- Rare clogging or dullness if layered with very heavy products on acne-prone areas
- Isolated cases of contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to silicones or citric-acid derivatives
- Product pilling when overapplied or combined with high levels of powders
If any irritation, breakout or discomfort occurs stop using the product and seek advice from a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5
Octydodecyl Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Citrate Crosspolymer forms a lightweight breathable film that sits on top of skin without sinking deeply into pores, and its crosslinked structure makes it less likely to trap oil or debris compared with heavier straight chain silicones. Lab tests show minimal clogging potential and user reports rarely link it to breakouts, hence the low rating of 1.
Suitable for most acne-prone or breakout-prone skin, though extremely reactive individuals may still prefer to monitor how their skin responds.
Because it is often paired with other low-viscosity silicones, overall pore-clogging risk depends on the full formula. Very occlusive oils or high wax levels in the same product may raise the chance of congestion even if this polymer alone is low risk.
Summary
Octydodecyl Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Citrate Crosspolymer works mainly as a skin conditioning agent and emollient. Its three-dimensional silicone network smooths rough texture, fills micro-gaps between skin cells and creates a soft protective layer that slows moisture loss without feeling greasy. The octyldodecanol ends add slip so products glide on easily while the citric acid links improve blendability with water-based ingredients.
Although not as famous as classic dimethicone, this crosspolymer has carved out a niche in lightweight moisturizers, primers and sunscreens where consumers want that velvety feel minus heavy shine. As formulators chase ever lighter textures its popularity is quietly growing.
Current safety data rate it as low-irritation and low-sensitizing with no major health red flags, making it broadly safe for daily use. Still, skin can react unpredictably so it is wise to patch test any new product containing this ingredient just to be sure your skin stays happy.