Octyldodecyl Ricinoleate: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 30, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Octyldodecyl Ricinoleate?

Octyldodecyl Ricinoleate is an ester created from ricinoleic acid, a fatty acid that comes from castor oil, and 2-octyldodecanol, a branched alcohol derived from vegetable sources. The result is a silky liquid that feels dry rather than greasy when applied to skin. Chemists began exploring castor-based esters in the 1960s as plant-sourced alternatives to mineral oil derivatives, and this particular ester quickly found favor in color cosmetics thanks to its smooth slip and long-lasting feel. Manufacturing involves reacting purified ricinoleic acid with 2-octyldodecanol under controlled heat and vacuum, then filtering and deodorizing the product until it meets cosmetic-grade standards.

You will spot Octyldodecyl Ricinoleate in a wide range of formulas: lipsticks, lip balms, liquid foundations, tinted moisturizers, sunscreens, cream blushers, eye shadows, hair conditioners, body lotions and many anti-aging or barrier-repair creams. Its ability to soften and condition without feeling heavy makes it especially popular in products aimed at dry or mature skin.

Octyldodecyl Ricinoleate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This ingredient brings one key function to a formula

As an emollient, Octyldodecyl Ricinoleate fills the tiny gaps between skin cells to create a smooth even surface. It softens rough patches, boosts spreadability so products glide on effortlessly and forms a light flexible film that helps lock in moisture. Because it is less greasy than many traditional plant oils, it leaves skin feeling velvety rather than oily which improves the overall sensory experience of creams, lotions and color cosmetics.

Who Can Use Octyldodecyl Ricinoleate

Most skin types tolerate this silky ester well. It shines in formulas for dry, normal and mature skin because it cushions rough spots and prevents moisture loss without leaving an oily film. Combination skin can also benefit, provided the product is lightweight overall. Extremely oily or very acne-prone complexions may prefer to limit use since the ingredient has a moderate likelihood of clogging pores when layered heavily or paired with other rich emollients.

Octyldodecyl Ricinoleate is sourced from castor oil and vegetable-based alcohols so it fits vegan and vegetarian lifestyles. No animal-derived materials are involved in its production.

The ester is considered low risk for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. It does not penetrate deeply or act on hormones. That said this is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should ask a healthcare professional before starting any new skincare product just to be safe.

Unlike ingredients such as retinol or certain essential oils Octyldodecyl Ricinoleate does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight so no extra sun precautions are needed beyond your usual daily SPF.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to any cosmetic ingredient can differ from one person to another. The effects listed below are uncommon and most users will not experience them when the product has been formulated correctly.

  • Clogged pores or breakouts in individuals who are highly acne prone
  • Mild transient skin irritation such as redness itching or burning
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in people sensitive to castor derivatives
  • Eye irritation if the ingredient migrates into the eyes from makeup

If you notice persistent irritation swelling or other concerning symptoms stop using the product and seek guidance from a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 2 out of 5

Octyldodecyl Ricinoleate has a branched structure that stays fluid at skin temperature so it is less likely to harden inside pores than straight chain oils. Still, it is a fatty ester derived from castor oil which can leave a light film on the skin. This places it in the low-to-moderate range for clogging potential.

People who break out easily may be able to use it in light lotions or makeup but should be cautious with richer creams or when layering it with other heavy emollients.

The pore-clogging risk rises with higher concentrations and in very humid climates where skin is already producing more oil.

Summary

Octyldodecyl Ricinoleate works mainly as an emollient that fills tiny gaps between skin cells smooths texture and locks in moisture while leaving a dry velvety finish. Its silky slip also helps makeup spread evenly and stay comfortable for hours.

The ingredient is a quiet favorite in lipsticks tinted moisturizers and barrier creams because it softens skin without the greasy feel that some plant oils leave behind. It is less common in ultra lightweight gels or products aimed at very oily skin.

Safety data show a low risk of irritation or systemic effects when used at normal cosmetic levels. As with any new skincare ingredient it is smart to patch test a fresh product first just to be sure your skin agrees with it.

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