Octyldodecyl Safflowerate: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 30, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Octyldodecyl Safflowerate?

Octyldodecyl Safflowerate is an ester created by linking octyldodecanol, a lightweight fatty alcohol, with the fatty acids found in Carthamus tinctorius, better known as safflower. The safflower plant has long been valued for its oil, which is naturally rich in linoleic and oleic acids. By turning these plant oils into an ester, chemists produce a silky liquid that feels less greasy and is more stable than raw oils. The ingredient grew popular in the late twentieth century when formulators started blending plant derived lipids with synthetic alcohols to achieve smoother textures and longer shelf life. Production involves an esterification process where purified safflower fatty acids are reacted with octyldodecanol under controlled heat and vacuum, then filtered and refined to remove impurities. Thanks to its soft, cushiony feel, Octyldodecyl Safflowerate appears in a wide range of leave-on products such as facial moisturizers, body lotions, lipsticks, creamy foundations, sunscreen emulsions and hair conditioners.

Octyldodecyl Safflowerate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In formulas, Octyldodecyl Safflowerate mainly behaves as an emollient. It spreads easily across skin or hair, filling in tiny gaps on the surface to leave a smooth, supple finish. This improves slip, reduces tugging during application and helps lock in moisture so skin feels soft and comfortable rather than dry or tight.

Who Can Use Octyldodecyl Safflowerate

Because it is a light silky emollient, Octyldodecyl Safflowerate suits most skin types including dry, normal and combination skin. Oily or very acne prone skin can usually tolerate it but those users may prefer to monitor for any extra shine or clogged pores because the ingredient is still an oil-derived lipid.

The ester is sourced from plant oil and a synthetic fatty alcohol so it contains no animal material. This makes it suitable for vegetarians and vegans provided the finished product is also cruelty free.

No data suggest that Octyldodecyl Safflowerate poses a risk to women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when used topically. Still, this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should ask a doctor before adding new skincare.

The ingredient does not absorb UV light and is not known to cause photosensitivity. It also has no known interactions with common active ingredients such as retinol or vitamin C.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to any cosmetic ingredient vary from person to person. The points below list potential side effects for Octyldodecyl Safflowerate, though most people will not experience them when the ingredient is used correctly in a well-formulated product.

  • Mild irritation redness, itching or stinging can occur on very sensitive skin
  • Allergic contact dermatitis rare but possible if someone is allergic to safflower derivatives
  • Pore congestion in individuals who are highly prone to comedones
  • Greasy feel when used in very high concentrations it may leave a film that some users find heavy

If you notice any of these issues discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional if symptoms persist.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 2 / 5  Octyldodecyl Safflowerate is an ester of a branched fatty alcohol and safflower fatty acids, giving it a light dry touch that spreads easily without the stickiness of raw oils. Its molecular size and branched structure reduce its tendency to pack tightly inside pores, placing it on the lower end of the comedogenic scale. Even so it is still an oil-derived lipid so there is a mild chance it can trap debris on very reactive skin. Most people prone to acne can use it without trouble, but extremely breakout-prone users might prefer ingredients rated 0 or 1. Formulas that keep the ester below about 10 % typically feel weightless and are less likely to contribute to clogged pores.

Summary

Octyldodecyl Safflowerate serves mainly as an emollient that glides over skin filling micro-gaps and reducing moisture loss so the surface feels soft smooth and conditioned. Its ester structure makes it more stable than plain safflower oil and less greasy than heavy plant butters, qualities that help formulators create lightweight lotions, silky sunscreens and creamy color cosmetics.

The ingredient enjoys steady but not superstar popularity: it shows up in many mainstream moisturizers and makeup bases yet rarely headlines marketing claims, quietly doing its job of enhancing texture and skin feel.

Topical use is considered very safe with only rare reports of irritation or allergy. As with any new skincare step perform a simple patch test when you try a product containing Octyldodecyl Safflowerate to ensure your skin agrees with it.

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