Oenothera Biennis Leaf Extract: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 30, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Oenothera Biennis Leaf Extract?

Oenothera Biennis Leaf Extract is derived from the leaves of evening primrose, a yellow flowering plant native to North America that now grows in many temperate regions. The leaves contain fatty acids such as linoleic and gamma-linolenic acid, along with flavonoids and antioxidant compounds that help support the skin’s natural barrier. Native peoples valued evening primrose for topical applications on minor skin complaints, and as botanical knowledge spread during the 17th and 18th centuries European herbalists adopted the plant as well. Modern cosmetics began turning to evening primrose in the late 20th century when researchers confirmed the soothing and conditioning properties of its fatty acids.

The extract is produced by harvesting the leaves, drying them, then using a gentle solvent or water-glycerin mixture to pull out the beneficial components. After filtration and concentration the solution is standardized to ensure consistent quality before being added to cosmetic formulas.

You will commonly spot Oenothera Biennis Leaf Extract in moisturizers, calming masks, after-sun lotions, anti-aging serums and products marketed for sensitive or easily irritated skin. Its mild profile and compatibility with other ingredients make it a versatile choice across many leave-on and rinse-off formulations.

Oenothera Biennis Leaf Extract’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This botanical is valued primarily for one key role in skincare.

Skin conditioning: The blend of fatty acids and antioxidants helps soften, smooth and hydrate the skin while supporting its protective barrier. Regular use can leave the complexion feeling more comfortable and resilient, which is why formulators lean on this extract for soothing or replenishing products aimed at dryness, sensitivity or early signs of aging.

Who Can Use Oenothera Biennis Leaf Extract

Because it is primarily a soothing and barrier-supporting botanical, Oenothera Biennis Leaf Extract tends to suit most skin types including dry, normal, combination and sensitive skin. Oily or acne-prone users can generally tolerate it as well since the extract itself is lightweight and not known to clog pores, though overall formula richness will matter more than the extract.

The ingredient is plant derived with no animal by-products so it is suitable for both vegans and vegetarians.

No specific contraindications have been reported for pregnant or breastfeeding women, but research during these life stages is limited. This information is not medical advice; expectant or nursing mothers should check with a healthcare professional before introducing any new skincare product.

The extract does not make the skin more sensitive to sunlight and can be used morning or night without added risk of sunburn. It is also fragrance free in its raw form so those avoiding added scents often find it agreeable.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Individual responses to topical Oenothera Biennis Leaf Extract can differ. The effects listed below are possible yet uncommon when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.

  • Redness or mild irritation – may occur in extremely sensitive skin or if the product contains a high concentration of the extract.
  • Itching or stinging – most likely in people with existing allergies to evening primrose or related plants in the Onagraceae family.
  • Contact dermatitis – rare but possible if a user is allergic to one of the extract’s natural compounds or to other ingredients in the finished product.

If any of these reactions appear stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1/5

Oenothera Biennis Leaf Extract is mostly water soluble and delivers only a light dose of fatty acids, mainly linoleic, that are unlikely to solidify inside pores. Its thin texture and quick absorption make clogging rare, which is why it sits at 1 rather than 0.

This ingredient is generally considered safe for skin that tends to break out.

Remember that the finished formula may still be pore clogging if it contains heavy oils or waxes, so always look at the full ingredient list.

Summary

In short, Oenothera Biennis Leaf Extract is a skin conditioner that softens, hydrates and adds gentle antioxidant support thanks to its blend of barrier friendly fatty acids and flavonoids.

While it is not a headline ingredient like hyaluronic acid, its steady rise in calming creams and serums shows growing appreciation among formulators and skincare fans alike.

It is considered very safe with only rare reports of irritation, yet a quick patch test is wise whenever you try a new product that includes it.

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