Oleic/Stearic Glycerides/Dimer Dilinoleate Crosspolymer: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 30, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Oleic/Stearic Glycerides/Dimer Dilinoleate Crosspolymer?

Oleic/Stearic Glycerides/Dimer Dilinoleate Crosspolymer is a plant-derived polymer created by linking together fatty acids found in natural oils. Chemically, it forms when dilinoleic acid, a building block from safflower or soybean oil, reacts with the mono, di and triglycerides of oleic and stearic acids, which are abundant in olive oil, shea butter and many other seed oils. The result is a stable, three-dimensional network that looks like a smooth, waxy solid.

This ingredient appeared in cosmetics in the early 2000s as brands looked for greener alternatives to petroleum-based thickeners. By using fatty acids that come from renewable crops, formulators could create richer textures without relying on synthetic waxes. The crosslinking step happens in a controlled reactor where heat and a food-grade catalyst help the fatty pieces bond, forming a resilient yet flexible polymer. After purification the material is ground into a fine powder or soft flakes that melt easily into creams and balms.

You will most often spot Oleic/Stearic Glycerides/Dimer Dilinoleate Crosspolymer in moisturizers, overnight masks, lip balms, anti-aging creams and high-end body butters. Its buttery feel and ability to lock water in the skin make it a favorite for products that promise lasting softness.

Oleic/Stearic Glycerides/Dimer Dilinoleate Crosspolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

The main role of this ingredient in skincare formulas is skin conditioning. By forming a light, breathable film on the surface, it helps seal in moisture so skin feels smooth and supple throughout the day. The polymer also gives creams a plush texture that glides on easily and leaves a subtle protective layer without greasiness, enhancing both the performance and the sensory appeal of the final product.

Who Can Use Oleic/Stearic Glycerides/Dimer Dilinoleate Crosspolymer

This fatty-acid based polymer is generally well tolerated by all skin types. Dry or mature skin tends to benefit the most thanks to its water-locking film, while normal and combination skin can enjoy its silky finish without feeling heavy. Oily or acne-prone users usually handle it fine too, because the polymer forms a breathable layer that does not trap excess sebum; however, very clog-prone individuals may prefer lightweight options if they notice congestion.

The ingredient comes from plant oils and contains no animal-derived components, so products featuring it are suitable for vegans and vegetarians as long as the rest of the formula meets those ethical standards.

No hormone-like activity or known developmental toxicity has been linked to Oleic/Stearic Glycerides/Dimer Dilinoleate Crosspolymer, meaning it is considered safe for pregnant or breastfeeding women in normal cosmetic concentrations. That said, this is not medical advice; anyone who is expecting or nursing should check with a healthcare professional before introducing new skincare products.

The polymer does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight, so there is no added photosensitivity risk. It is also fragrance-free by nature and compatible with most common skincare actives, which helps minimize the chance of cross-reactions in multi-step routines.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Oleic/Stearic Glycerides/Dimer Dilinoleate Crosspolymer vary from person to person. The points below describe potential side effects, but they are uncommon and most users will not experience them when the ingredient is properly formulated and used as directed.

  • Mild redness or itching in individuals with very sensitive skin
  • Transient stinging if applied to broken or freshly exfoliated skin
  • Rare allergic contact dermatitis triggered by the fatty acid components
  • Possible pore clogging or comedone formation in those highly prone to acne
  • Greasy or heavy feel when layered too thickly, especially in humid climates

If any irritation, swelling or prolonged discomfort occurs discontinue use and consult a dermatologist or healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 / 5

The ingredient is built from oleic and stearic fatty acids yet its crosslinked structure keeps most of it on the skin surface rather than inside pores. Used at modest levels it forms a light film that rarely traps sebum, so clogging risk stays low. Very congestion-prone users could still react if a formula layers on thickly but this is the exception not the rule.

In practice it is generally suitable for acne-prone skin though final performance depends on the full recipe and each person’s skin chemistry.

Summary

Oleic/Stearic Glycerides/Dimer Dilinoleate Crosspolymer is a plant sourced skin conditioner that boosts softness, seals in moisture and lends creams a rich glide by creating a thin protective film. It is less common than standard waxes yet valued in premium moisturizers, lip balms and masks for its silky non greasy feel.

Toxicology reviews rate it low risk with only occasional reports of mild irritation or allergy. Most skin types tolerate it well. Still, giving any new product a small patch test first helps catch personal sensitivities and keeps your routine on the safe side.

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