Oligopeptide-172: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 30, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Oligopeptide-172?

Oligopeptide-172 is a lab-made peptide built from 73 amino acids, including alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tyrosine and valine. Because it is manufactured rather than taken from animals or plants, it is considered a fully synthetic ingredient.

Peptides first caught the attention of the beauty industry in the early 2000s when researchers saw how short chains of amino acids could signal the skin to behave in a more youthful way. Oligopeptide-172 was created in this wave of innovation to offer a stable, reproducible alternative to naturally sourced growth factors.

To make it, chemists use a step-by-step method called solid-phase peptide synthesis. Each amino acid is added one at a time to a solid resin, protected so the chain grows in the right order. After all 73 amino acids are linked, the peptide is removed from the resin, purified and freeze-dried to a fine powder ready for use in cosmetic formulas.

Thanks to its ability to support skin feel and resilience, Oligopeptide-172 is often found in serums, anti-aging creams, sheet masks, eye treatments, lightweight moisturizers and post-procedure soothing gels.

Oligopeptide-172’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In skincare formulas Oligopeptide-172 mainly serves two roles that work together for healthier looking skin.

  • Skin Conditioning: Helps the skin surface feel smoother and more supple by supporting its natural proteins, which can make fine lines look softer and improve overall texture
  • Skin Protecting: Forms a light film that shields the skin from everyday stressors like dehydration and pollution, helping maintain a balanced barrier

Who Can Use Oligopeptide-172

Oligopeptide-172 is generally well tolerated by dry, oily, combination and sensitive skin because it is lightweight and non occlusive. Very acne prone skin can usually incorporate it without extra congestion, though those in the middle of a cystic breakout may want to introduce it slowly to avoid overwhelming the skin.

Because it is produced entirely through laboratory synthesis and contains no animal derived materials, Oligopeptide-172 is suitable for both vegans and vegetarians.

No published evidence indicates that topical Oligopeptide-172 is unsafe during pregnancy or while breastfeeding. However this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should consult a healthcare professional before adding new skincare products, just to be on the safe side.

The peptide is not known to cause photosensitivity and can be applied morning or night, though daily sunscreen is still recommended as part of a balanced routine.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Oligopeptide-172 vary from person to person. The points below outline potential side effects, but most users will not encounter them when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.

  • Transient redness or warmth immediately after application
  • Mild itching or stinging on very sensitive skin
  • Localized swelling in rare cases of allergy to the peptide or other formula components
  • Contact dermatitis if applied to already compromised or broken skin
  • Diminished peptide effectiveness when layered with highly acidic products, prompting overuse of other actives that could irritate the skin

If a negative reaction occurs discontinue use and seek guidance from a medical professional or dermatologist.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 / 5

Oligopeptide-172 is a large water-soluble molecule that sits lightly on the skin without blocking pores. It is usually delivered in thin serums or gels rather than heavy creams, further reducing any chance of congestion. Because it does not contain oily or waxy components and is used at low concentrations, it earns a solid non-comedogenic score.

This makes it suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin in most cases. If a product with Oligopeptide-172 does trigger pimples, the culprit is more likely another ingredient in the formula than the peptide itself.

Keep in mind that pairing it with rich emollients or occlusive balms could raise the overall pore-clogging potential of the finished product, so check the full ingredient list if you are very sensitive to breakouts.

Summary

Oligopeptide-172 conditions and protects the skin by supporting its natural protein network and forming a light breathable shield that defends against dryness and everyday stress. These actions can leave the surface smoother, softer and more resilient.

Despite these perks the peptide is still something of a niche player, turning up mostly in targeted anti-aging serums and post-procedure care rather than mass-market moisturizers. As more brands look for gentle science-backed actives its presence may grow.

Overall safety is considered high with rare reports of irritation or allergy. As with any new skincare ingredient, doing a quick patch test before full-face use is a smart way to make sure your skin agrees with it.

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