Oligopeptide-48: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 30, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Oligopeptide-48?

Oligopeptide-48 is a lab-made peptide chain built from 40 amino acids, including well-known ones like alanine, glycine, leucine, serine and valine. Because it is synthetic, it does not come from plants or animals but is created through solid-phase peptide synthesis, a step-by-step method that links each amino acid in a controlled sequence. This technology became popular in cosmetic research in the early 2000s when brands started looking for targeted molecules that could signal the skin to look smoother and firmer. Once the full chain is assembled, it is purified, dried into a fine powder and blended into cosmetic bases. You will most often see Oligopeptide-48 in focused skin care such as anti-aging serums, firming creams, lightweight moisturizers, eye treatments and sheet masks where brands want a gentle yet active conditioning ingredient.

Oligopeptide-48’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This peptide is prized for one core job in skin care formulations.

Skin conditioning: Oligopeptide-48 helps keep the skin surface soft, hydrated and smooth by supporting the natural protein matrix. When added to a formula it can improve the overall feel of a product, help the complexion look more even and promote a refreshed appearance with regular use.

Who Can Use Oligopeptide-48

Oligopeptide-48 is generally suitable for all skin types ­– dry, normal, combination, oily and even sensitive – because peptides are lightweight and non-occlusive, so they rarely clog pores or overwhelm reactive skin. People with very sensitive or compromised skin should still introduce any new peptide slowly, as their barrier can be finicky, but the ingredient itself is considered gentle.

Because it is fully synthetic and does not rely on animal or plant extraction, Oligopeptide-48 is acceptable for vegans and vegetarians. That said, always check the rest of a product’s ingredient list to be certain the entire formula aligns with personal ethics.

Current research has not flagged topical Oligopeptide-48 as problematic during pregnancy or while breastfeeding; peptides do not penetrate deeply enough to reach systemic circulation in meaningful amounts. Still, this is not medical advice and pregnant or nursing individuals should clear every skincare product with their doctor to be safe.

The ingredient is not known to cause photosensitivity, so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. Standard daytime sun protection is still recommended to protect any skincare results.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Oligopeptide-48 differ from one person to the next. The points below outline potential, but uncommon, issues. When the ingredient is used at appropriate levels in a well-formulated product most users experience none of these effects.

  • Transient redness or warmth
  • Mild itching or stinging during initial uses
  • Localized rash in those allergic to one of the formula’s other components
  • Swelling or hives indicating a true hypersensitivity
  • Contact dermatitis if combined with a highly sensitizing preservative or fragrance

If any of the above reactions occur stop using the product immediately and consult a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 / 5. Oligopeptide-48 is water soluble, lightweight and free of oily carriers so it does not block pores or sit on the skin surface in a way that would encourage clogging. It is therefore considered non-comedogenic and suitable for people prone to acne or frequent breakouts. Because it relies on the surrounding formula to stay stable, the overall product texture and any added emollients will matter more for breakout risk than the peptide itself.

Summary

Oligopeptide-48 is used in cosmetics as a skin-conditioning agent that helps the surface feel smoother, look more even and stay comfortably hydrated. It works by mimicking pieces of the skin’s own protein structure, encouraging a refreshed appearance without heavy occlusive ingredients.

This peptide is still a niche addition rather than a mainstream buzzword, showing up mostly in targeted serums and premium creams where brands want to spotlight advanced laboratory actives.

Current data shows it is gentle, non-comedogenic and safe for all skin types when used as directed. As with any new skincare product, performing a small patch test can help you catch an unexpected sensitivity before applying it to your entire face.

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