Ophiopogon Extract Stearate: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 30, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Ophiopogon Extract Stearate?

Ophiopogon Extract Stearate is a cosmetic ingredient that pairs two natural elements: an extract from the root of Ophiopogon japonicus, a small evergreen plant in the lily family, and stearic acid, a fatty acid also known as octadecanoic acid. The root extract is rich in sugars, saponins and flavonoids, while stearic acid provides a creamy, skin-loving texture. Traditional Chinese skincare rituals have long valued Ophiopogon root for its soothing qualities. Modern formulators began blending the extract with stearic acid in the late 20th century when they discovered the combo created a mild but effective cleansing agent for leave-on and rinse-off products.

The manufacturing process starts by washing and drying the plant roots, then soaking them in a food-grade solvent to pull out the beneficial compounds. After filtration and concentration, the resulting extract is gently mixed with purified stearic acid under controlled heat to help the two parts bond. Once cooled and solidified, the material is milled into a fine powder or wax-like flakes ready for use in product batches.

Ophiopogon Extract Stearate appears most often in creamy cleansers, facial masks, gentle body washes, baby washes, exfoliating scrubs and makeup removers. It is prized for adding a lush feel, helping oils and water blend and leaving skin comfortably clean without tightness.

Ophiopogon Extract Stearate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This multitasking ingredient earns its spot on labels thanks to its primary function

Cleansing: The stearic acid portion lifts away surface oils, makeup and daily grime while the root extract soothes so skin feels fresh not stripped. Formulators like it because it creates a soft lather, stabilises emulsions and can replace harsher surfactants in sensitive-skin products.

Who Can Use Ophiopogon Extract Stearate

Thanks to its mild nature Ophiopogon Extract Stearate works well for most skin types, including normal, dry, mature and sensitive skin that dislikes harsh foaming agents. Combination skin usually tolerates it too. Extremely oily or acne-prone complexions might find the fatty feel a bit heavy in leave-on formulas, so lighter cleansers could be a better pick in that case.

The ingredient is suitable for vegans and vegetarians when the stearic acid is sourced from plants such as coconut or palm rather than animal fat. Ethical brands normally state this on their labels or websites, so check if that matters to you.

There is no published evidence that Ophiopogon Extract Stearate poses a risk to pregnant or breastfeeding women when used topically in cosmetics. Still this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should run any new skincare product past a qualified healthcare professional to be safe.

The ingredient does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and adds no extra need for sunscreen beyond the daily protection experts already recommend. It is also fragrance-free by nature which can be a bonus for users trying to avoid perfumed formulas.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Ophiopogon Extract Stearate vary from person to person. The effects below are possible yet unlikely for the average user when the ingredient is properly formulated and used as intended.

  • Mild redness or stinging particularly on very compromised or broken skin
  • Itching or small bumps in individuals allergic to lily family plants or coconut/palm derivatives
  • Temporary clogged pores in users already prone to congestion if the product is not rinsed off fully
  • Contact dermatitis in those with a specific sensitivity to stearic acid or plant saponins

If any adverse reaction occurs stop using the product and seek advice from a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 2 / 5

The stearic acid portion is mildly comedogenic while the root extract is not, so the blend lands in the low-to-moderate range. Most people will have no issues but those who are very acne prone might notice congestion if the product is heavy or not rinsed away fully. Using it in rinse-off formulas or lighter emulsions keeps the pore-clogging risk minimal.

Formulation matters: higher concentrations of stearic acid, thick occlusive bases or pairing it with other rich oils can push the rating higher, whereas lighter textures help offset any tendency to clog pores.

Summary

Ophiopogon Extract Stearate is mainly a gentle cleanser and emulsifier. The fatty acid lifts away oils and makeup, the root extract calms skin and the two together create a creamy texture that leaves skin feeling soft not tight.

It is a useful yet relatively niche ingredient, popular with brands that focus on mild botanically inspired formulas rather than mass-market cleansers.

Current safety data shows it is well tolerated for most skin types with only a small risk of irritation or pore clogging. As with any new product it is wise to perform a quick patch test to confirm personal compatibility.

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