Paecilomyces Japonica/Grape/Cucumber Juice Extract Ferment Filtrate: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Paecilomyces Japonica/Grape/Cucumber Juice Extract Ferment Filtrate?

Paecilomyces Japonica/Grape/Cucumber Juice Extract Ferment Filtrate comes from a blend of grape and cucumber juices that has been fermented with the microorganism Paecilomyces japonica. During fermentation the microbe breaks down sugars, proteins and plant compounds into smaller molecules that skin can absorb more easily. The finished filtrate keeps water-soluble vitamins, polyphenols, minerals and amino acids from the fruits while adding new peptides and enzymes created in the fermenting step.

Fermented plant liquids first appeared in Korean skin care in the early 2000s, when brands began using them for their light texture and boosted antioxidant content. As demand for gentler, “food-based” ingredients rose, formulators experimented with different fruits and vegetables. Grape juice offers resveratrol and other polyphenols, cucumber is known for its soothing properties and Paecilomyces japonica is valued for its ability to unlock these benefits through fermentation. Today the filtrate is produced in stainless-steel tanks where temperature, oxygen and pH are carefully controlled. After several days the mixture is filtered to remove the microbe and solid residues, then concentrated and preserved for use in cosmetics.

Because it is water-based and has a low viscosity, the ingredient slips easily into many product types. You will most often see it in lightweight moisturizers, hydrating essences, sheet masks, anti-aging serums, after-sun gels and soothing sprays where it can supply antioxidants without adding heaviness.

Paecilomyces Japonica/Grape/Cucumber Juice Extract Ferment Filtrate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This multitasker lends several useful properties to skin care formulas:

  • Absorbent: Helps mop up excess oil on the skin surface giving a softer matte finish while reducing the greasy feel of richer creams.
  • Antioxidant: Provides natural polyphenols and fermentation-derived peptides that neutralize free radicals which can dull skin and break down collagen. This support also helps protect the formula itself from oxidation.
  • Buffering: Contributes mild acid-base balancing that keeps the final product within the skin-friendly pH zone improving comfort and stability.
  • Skin Protecting: Forms a light breathable film that limits moisture loss and shields against everyday pollutants and irritants helping skin stay calm and hydrated.

Who Can Use Paecilomyces Japonica/Grape/Cucumber Juice Extract Ferment Filtrate

This ferment filtrate is light, water based and non occlusive which makes it a good fit for most skin types including oily, normal, dry and combination. Its soothing nature also means that sensitive skin can usually tolerate it well. The only group that may need caution is anyone with a known allergy to grapes, cucumbers or fermentation by products because cross sensitivity is possible.

The ingredient is produced solely from plant juices and a non animal microorganism so it aligns with vegan and vegetarian preferences.

Current safety data suggests it is safe for use during pregnancy and breastfeeding when included at typical cosmetic levels. That said this is not medical advice and expectant or nursing mothers should show any product they plan to use to a qualified healthcare provider.

The filtrate does not make skin more reactive to sunlight so it is not considered photosensitising. It layers well with most common actives including vitamin C, niacinamide and mild exfoliating acids without raising the risk of irritation.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Paecilomyces Japonica/Grape/Cucumber Juice Extract Ferment Filtrate vary from person to person. The effects listed below are potential outcomes and are unlikely for most users when the ingredient has been properly formulated and preserved.

  • Skin irritation – redness, warmth or mild stinging can appear on very reactive skin
  • Allergic contact dermatitis – rare but possible in individuals allergic to grape, cucumber or fungal proteins
  • Itching or hives – may occur if the immune system misidentifies ferment-derived peptides as threats
  • Flare up of existing eczema or rosacea – any new product can unbalance an already compromised barrier
  • Product spoilage leading to secondary irritation – if the finished product is not preserved correctly microorganisms may grow and trigger breakouts or rashes

If any of these reactions develop stop using the product immediately and seek guidance from a healthcare professional or dermatologist.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 / 5

Paecilomyces Japonica/Grape/Cucumber Juice Extract Ferment Filtrate is almost entirely water with trace peptides, minerals and polyphenols and contains no heavy oils or waxes that could clog pores. Its thin texture absorbs quickly and leaves no residue so it earns the lowest possible comedogenic score.

This makes the ingredient suitable for skin that is prone to acne or frequent breakouts.

As with most water based ferments, the only pore-related concern would come from another comedogenic component in the finished formula not from the filtrate itself.

Summary

Paecilomyces Japonica/Grape/Cucumber Juice Extract Ferment Filtrate works as an absorbent, antioxidant, pH buffer and skin protectant. Fermentation breaks grape and cucumber juices into smaller molecules then adds new peptides and enzymes, allowing the filtrate to mop up excess oil, neutralise free radicals, support a balanced pH and form a weightless film that keeps moisture in.

Although it is still a niche ingredient compared with big names like hyaluronic acid, its inclusion is growing in K-beauty inspired mists, serums and gels thanks to its lightweight feel and plant-based story.

Current research and consumer use point to a high margin of safety with very low rates of irritation or allergy. Even so, anyone trying a new product that contains this ferment should patch test first to confirm personal compatibility.

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