What Is Palmitoyl Ascorbyl Glucoside?
Palmitoyl Ascorbyl Glucoside is a stabilized form of vitamin C created by bonding ascorbic acid with glucose and palmitic acid. The result is a molecule that pairs the antioxidant punch of vitamin C with the moisture-friendly nature of sugar and the skin-affinity of a fatty acid. It is typically sourced from plant-derived glucose and palmitic acid obtained from palm or coconut oil, then combined with lab-made vitamin C in a controlled esterification process that boosts shelf life and skin compatibility.
The ingredient gained attention in the early 2000s when formulators were searching for vitamin C options that stay potent longer and tolerate exposure to air and light. Traditional vitamin C oxidizes quickly, so chemists experimented with attaching protective groups. Linking vitamin C to glucose and a fatty chain proved especially effective, paving the way for its inclusion in creams, lotions and serums aimed at brightening and moisture support.
Production starts with enzymatic or chemical attachment of glucose to ascorbic acid at the 2-O position, followed by esterification with palmitic acid at the 6 position. This dual modification shields vitamin C from rapid breakdown while making it more oil-loving, which helps it blend smoothly into both water-in-oil and oil-in-water emulsions.
You will most often find Palmitoyl Ascorbyl Glucoside in anti-aging serums, brightening lotions, sheet masks, daily moisturizers and lightweight eye creams. Its balanced water-and-oil profile lets it sit comfortably in rinse-off cleansers as well as leave-on treatments targeting uneven tone or dullness.
Palmitoyl Ascorbyl Glucoside’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multitasking ingredient delivers several advantages in skin care formulas.
- Fragrance: Provides a mild, fresh scent that can soften or round out the overall aroma of a product, reducing the need for added perfume
- Humectant: Attracts and holds water on the skin’s surface helping keep skin plump and smooth while supporting a healthy skin barrier
- Cleansing: Assists in lifting away dirt and excess oil, allowing cleansers to purify without leaving skin stripped or tight
- Emulsifying: Helps oil and water mix evenly which stabilizes creams and lotions so they stay uniform in texture and performance across their shelf life
Who Can Use Palmitoyl Ascorbyl Glucoside
This vitamin C derivative is generally friendly to all skin types including dry, oily, combination and mature skin. Its gentle nature means even sensitive skin often tolerates it better than pure ascorbic acid, though very reactive skin may still feel a mild tingle because of its acidic backbone.
Because the glucose and palmitic acid can be sourced from plants such as corn sugar and coconut or sustainable palm, formulas using only these plant inputs are suitable for both vegans and vegetarians. Always check labels for animal-derived additives elsewhere in the product if cruelty-free status is important to you.
No data links Palmitoyl Ascorbyl Glucoside to harm during pregnancy or breastfeeding and topical vitamin C derivatives are widely considered low risk. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should run new skincare products past a doctor to be on the safe side.
The ingredient does not cause photosensitivity. In fact its antioxidant activity can help defend against photo damage, making it a good daytime partner under sunscreen. It also plays well with most actives like niacinamide or peptides without causing instability.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Palmitoyl Ascorbyl Glucoside differ from person to person. The effects listed below are only potential issues and are unlikely for most users when the ingredient is correctly formulated.
- Mild stinging or tingling, especially on freshly exfoliated or compromised skin
- Transient redness or warmth right after application
- Dry patches if combined with several other strong actives in the same routine
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis featuring itching or small bumps
- Slight yellowing of fabrics or product residue over time due to vitamin C oxidation
If you notice persistent irritation or any unexpected reaction, stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional for guidance.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5 – Low likelihood of clogging pores
Palmitoyl Ascorbyl Glucoside is largely water friendly despite having a fatty acid tail, and it is used at low percentages in formulas. The glucose and ascorbic parts keep the molecule light and help it rinse or absorb without leaving a thick oily film, which explains the low rating.
Because the rating sits at 1 it is generally suitable for people who are prone to acne or breakouts.
Keep in mind that a finished product’s overall pore clogging risk depends on the whole recipe, so pair this ingredient with non-comedogenic oils and butters if you are formulating for breakout-prone skin.
Summary
Palmitoyl Ascorbyl Glucoside acts as a gentle multitasker. It freshens the scent of a formula, pulls water to the skin as a humectant, lifts grime in cleansers, and stabilizes emulsions so creams stay smooth. It does this by combining the antioxidant core of vitamin C with a sugar unit that grabs moisture and a fatty piece that loves oil, letting it sit comfortably at the border of water and oil phases.
The ingredient is not as famous as pure vitamin C or ascorbyl glucoside yet its balanced profile has earned it a steady spot in modern serums and moisturizers that aim for bright skin without the hassle of quick oxidation.
Safety data show a very low irritation rate and no known long-term concerns, making it a safe choice for most skin types. As with any new product, do a quick patch test before full use just to be careful.