What Is Palmitoyl Sh-Polypeptide-109 Cholesterol?
Palmitoyl Sh-Polypeptide-109 Cholesterol is a lab-designed complex that links a short bioactive peptide, Palmitic Acid and Cholesterol into one amphiphilic molecule. The peptide segment, sh-Polypeptide-109, is modeled after naturally occurring signaling proteins that help guide cell renewal. Attaching Palmitic Acid at the N-terminus gives the peptide a fatty “tail” that anchors it to skin or hair surfaces while the Cholesterol at the C-terminus adds extra lipid character and compatibility with the skin’s own barrier lipids.
Peptide lipidation first gained traction in the early 2000s when formulators realized that adding fatty acids could protect fragile peptides from breaking down and help them slip through the outer skin layer. The cholesterol end further improves stability and affinity for the stratum corneum. Today this dual-ended approach makes Palmitoyl Sh-Polypeptide-109 Cholesterol a reliable workhorse in modern cosmetic science.
Manufacturing starts with solid-phase peptide synthesis of sh-Polypeptide-109, followed by controlled coupling reactions: palmitoylation of the N-terminal amino group then esterification or amidation with Cholesterol at the C-terminus. After purification and quality checks the finished ingredient appears as an off-white powder ready to be dispersed into oil or water phases.
You will most often spot it in leave-on products where contact time can be maximized such as anti-aging face serums, barrier-repair moisturizers, eye creams, sheet masks, overnight treatments, hair masks and scalp-leave-ons intended to strengthen strands or soothe the scalp.
Palmitoyl Sh-Polypeptide-109 Cholesterol’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This lipopeptide earns its keep by conditioning both skin and hair, adding a touch of targeted bioactivity along the way
- Hair conditioning – forms a lightweight film on the hair shaft that smooths the cuticle, improves softness, reduces breakage and adds a healthy shine while its peptide core can help support stronger keratin over time
- Skin conditioning – reinforces the skin barrier thanks to its palmitic and cholesterol ends, improves moisture retention, supports a smoother texture and may nudge cell renewal for a more youthful look
Who Can Use Palmitoyl Sh-Polypeptide-109 Cholesterol
This peptide-lipid blend is gentle enough for most skin types. Dry, mature or barrier-compromised skin tends to benefit the most because the ingredient adds both moisture and barrier-friendly lipids. Normal and combination skin usually tolerate it well while very oily or acne-prone skin may prefer lighter formulas since the fatty tail can feel rich if applied in excess.
Hair care products containing Palmitoyl Sh-Polypeptide-109 Cholesterol suit all scalp types but deliver the biggest payoff to dry or damaged strands that need extra softness and strength.
The molecule itself is made by chemical synthesis; the peptide and palmitic acid are man-made. The cholesterol segment can be sourced from animals or plants. Brands that use plant-derived or lab-grown cholesterol may label the final formula as vegan. If you follow a strict vegan or vegetarian lifestyle check the supplier or brand statement before purchase.
No data link this ingredient to hormonal disruption so topical use is generally viewed as low risk for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. Still this is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should show the full ingredient list to a health professional before adding new products to a routine.
Palmitoyl Sh-Polypeptide-109 Cholesterol is not known to increase sun sensitivity. Standard daily sunscreen is still recommended but for normal photo-protection rather than any special concern with this peptide.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to a topical ingredient vary from person to person. The points below describe possible side effects yet most users will not experience them when the product is well formulated and used as directed.
- Mild stinging or redness in very sensitive skin
- Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to peptides fatty acids or cholesterol derivatives
- Transient breakouts or clogged pores on highly oily skin if a rich formula is applied too often
- Scalp buildup or greasiness when overused in leave-on hair treatments
If any uncomfortable reaction develops stop using the product and seek advice from a qualified healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 2/5
The fatty portions of the molecule come from palmitic acid and cholesterol, both of which can have a mild pore-clogging tendency when used in high amounts. However the ingredient is typically added at low levels and the bulky peptide segment keeps the overall structure less likely to pack tightly into pores, so the risk remains modest rather than high.
Most acne-prone users can tolerate it if the finished formula is lightweight and non-occlusive, but those who break out easily might prefer to monitor skin response when first trying a product.
Formula context matters: combined with heavier oils or waxes the comedogenic potential rises, while water-based serums or lotions usually keep it low.
Summary
Palmitoyl Sh-Polypeptide-109 Cholesterol is a hybrid molecule that conditions skin and hair by blending a bioactive peptide with lipid anchors. The peptide segment supports cell renewal while the palmitic acid and cholesterol ends reinforce the skin barrier, lock in moisture, smooth hair cuticles and add softness.
Use of this lipopeptide is growing, especially in premium serums and reparative hair masks, though it is still less common than classic peptides or ceramides.
Current safety data show a low risk of irritation or hormone disruption and no major red flags for typical cosmetic use. As with any new ingredient it is wise to perform a small patch test first to make sure your skin or scalp agrees with the formula.