Palmitoyl Tripeptide-52 Amide: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Palmitoyl Tripeptide-52 Amide?

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-52 Amide is a lab made molecule that links a short chain of three amino acids, called a tripeptide, to palmitic acid, a fatty acid found in plants and animals. Chemists first create Tripeptide-52 through standard peptide synthesis, then react it with palmitoyl chloride and convert the C-terminal end into an amide, giving the ingredient better stability and skin affinity. This hybrid of peptide and lipid lets the molecule blend easily into the skin’s outer layer.

The use of palmitoylated peptides in beauty care grew in the late 1990s when researchers noticed that adding a fatty acid tail helped small peptides travel through the skin surface. Since then brands looking for gentle yet effective anti-aging actives have added various palmitoyl peptides to eye creams, face serums and leave-on treatments. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-52 Amide follows the same path, joining product lineups aimed at smoothing and hydrating skin.

You will most often spot this ingredient in daily moisturizers, lightweight serums, sheet masks, eye creams and specialty anti-aging formulas that promise firming or plumping effects. Because it is water soluble but has an oil friendly tail, formulators can include it in both emulsions and gel systems without much trouble.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-52 Amide’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In skin care formulas Palmitoyl Tripeptide-52 Amide serves one main role that can translate into several visible perks for the user.

Skin conditioning: By binding to the skin’s surface the peptide helps support a smoother, softer feel while minimizing the look of fine lines. Its fatty acid portion improves the skin barrier’s moisture retention which can lead to a plumper, more comfortable complexion over time.

Who Can Use Palmitoyl Tripeptide-52 Amide

This peptide suits most skin types including normal, dry, combination and sensitive skin given its gentle nature and barrier supporting fatty acid tail. Oily or acne prone skin can usually tolerate it as well since the molecule is lightweight and used at very low concentrations, though those who react poorly to richer creams may prefer it in gel or serum formats.

The compound is synthesized in a lab without animal by-products so it is considered suitable for both vegans and vegetarians. Always check the full ingredient list of the finished product because other formula components or capsule materials may not align with vegan preferences.

No specific contraindications have been reported for pregnant or breastfeeding women. Nevertheless this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should review all skincare products with a qualified healthcare provider to ensure overall safety.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-52 Amide does not increase photosensitivity and can be used morning or night. It layers well with common actives such as niacinamide, ceramides and most antioxidants.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Side effects and reactions to topical Palmitoyl Tripeptide-52 Amide vary from person to person. The following points list potential issues that could arise, though they are unlikely for the average user when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.

  • Mild redness or warmth
  • Temporary itching or tingling
  • Localized irritation in highly sensitive skin
  • Contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to peptides or palmitic acid derivatives
  • Breakouts if paired with highly occlusive bases on very acne prone skin

If any of these effects occur stop using the product and seek medical advice if symptoms persist or worsen.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 / 5

While the molecule contains a palmitic acid segment, it is used in very small amounts and is bound to a peptide that changes how it behaves on skin. It does not form a heavy, pore clogging film and is typically found in light serums or emulsions. For this reason its likelihood of triggering clogged pores is considered low.

Most people prone to acne or breakouts can use products containing Palmitoyl Tripeptide-52 Amide without extra concern, provided the overall formula is lightweight and non-occlusive.

No additional factors have been reported that would significantly raise its comedogenic potential.

Summary

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-52 Amide is a lab made peptide linked to a fatty acid that conditions skin by boosting surface smoothness and reinforcing the moisture barrier. The palmitoyl tail helps the peptide slip into the skin’s outer layer where it can soften the look of fine lines and support a plump, comfortable feel.

It is not yet a blockbuster ingredient but it is gaining steady attention in niche anti aging serums, eye creams and moisturizers aimed at sensitive or dehydrated skin types.

Current data shows it is well tolerated with a very low risk of irritation or pore clogging at typical use levels, making it a safe pick for most skin care routines. As with any new product it is wise to perform a quick patch test before full application to ensure personal compatibility.

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