Payena Lucida Seed Oil: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Payena Lucida Seed Oil?

Payena Lucida Seed Oil is a plant oil obtained by pressing the seeds of Payena lucida, an evergreen tree that grows in the tropical forests of Southeast Asia. Belonging to the same family as shea and illipe, the tree yields seeds naturally rich in triglycerides made up of oleic, stearic and palmitic fatty acids. These fatty acids give the oil its smooth feel and softening ability. Local communities have long pressed the seeds for cooking and as a skin salve; once the cosmetic industry noticed its velvety texture and stability, refiners began cold pressing or expeller pressing the seeds, then filtering and lightly deodorizing the oil to suit modern formulas.

Today Payena Lucida Seed Oil appears in a range of personal care items such as hair masks, conditioners, leave in serums, skin moisturizers, body butters, hand creams, lip balms and solid cleansing bars where a gentle, cushiony finish is desired.

Payena Lucida Seed Oil’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In formulations this oil serves two key functions that translate into noticeable beauty benefits:

  • Hair conditioning – forms a light film over the hair shaft which smooths rough cuticles, boosts shine, helps detangle and reduces breakage caused by combing or heat styling
  • Emollient – fills in tiny gaps in the skin’s surface so skin feels softer and more supple while helping lock in water for longer lasting moisture

Who Can Use Payena Lucida Seed Oil

Thanks to its balanced mix of oleic and stearic acids, Payena Lucida Seed Oil suits normal, dry and combination skin that could use extra softness and protection. Its velvety texture is richer than grapeseed or jojoba, so those with very oily or easily congested skin may find it too heavy if layered thickly, especially on the face. Hair types ranging from wavy to coily generally appreciate its slip and cuticle smoothing effect, while very fine, limp hair may prefer only a small amount or a rinse-out formulation.

The oil is 100 percent plant derived, making it acceptable for vegans and vegetarians provided it has not been processed with animal based additives or tested on animals by the finished brand.

No data points to specific concerns for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when the oil is used topically and in normal cosmetic concentrations. This is not medical advice; expectant or nursing mothers should still review any product with their healthcare provider.

Payena Lucida Seed Oil is not known to cause photosensitivity, so daytime use does not increase the risk of sunburn. It also plays well with common actives such as vitamin C and niacinamide, adding moisture without interfering with their performance.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Individual responses to Payena Lucida Seed Oil vary. The following list covers potential side effects, though most people will not encounter them when products are formulated and used as intended.

  • Allergic reaction – rare nut or seed allergy type response presenting as redness, itching or swelling
  • Clogged pores or acne flare – possible in users with very oily or acne prone skin if the oil is layered too heavily or left on overnight
  • Contact dermatitis – irritation or rash if the person is sensitive to a specific component of the oil or to residual proteins left after pressing
  • Scalp buildup – when overused in leave in hair products, waxy residues may accumulate and lead to dullness or itchiness
  • Rancidity related irritation – old or improperly stored oil can oxidize, resulting in an off smell and mild skin irritation

If any discomfort, rash or other adverse effect occurs stop using the product immediately and consult a qualified healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Payena Lucida Seed Oil scores a 2 out of 5 on the comedogenic scale. Its fatty acid profile contains a fair amount of oleic acid, which can penetrate and soften skin but may sit heavy on very oily complexions, while the higher melting point stearic and palmitic acids add a thicker, buttery feel that can trap debris if layered too generously. In most balanced formulas or when applied sparingly it is unlikely to clog pores, yet users who break out easily might prefer lighter oils. Refining reduces pore-clogging impurities and rancidity-related byproducts, so choosing a fresh, well-filtered grade helps keep the rating on the lower side.

Bottom line: generally fine for normal or dry skin but may be borderline for those highly prone to acne.

Summary

Payena Lucida Seed Oil mainly conditions hair and acts as an emollient for skin. Its mix of oleic, stearic and palmitic acids forms a cushioning film that smooths cuticles, eases detangling, seals in moisture and fills microscopic surface gaps so skin feels softer and looks healthier. While beloved in its native regions, it remains a niche ingredient compared with shea or argan though formulators value its velvety texture and good oxidative stability.

Topically the oil is considered low risk, with rare reports of allergy or irritation and a moderate comedogenic rating that most users tolerate. As with any new cosmetic, patch test a small area first to confirm personal compatibility before regular use.

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