What Is Peg-120 Methyl Glucose Trioleate?
Peg-120 Methyl Glucose Trioleate is a plant derived ingredient created by attaching about 120 units of ethylene oxide to methyl glucose, then esterifying the result with trioleic acid that comes from natural fats such as olive or sunflower oil. The outcome is a large, water soluble molecule that combines the skin friendly feel of sugar with the conditioning properties of fatty acids. Chemists began exploring sugar based surfactants in the late 1970s as a milder alternative to harsh sulfates, and by the early 2000s this particular material had found a place in gentle facial cleansers and baby shampoos. Production happens in three main steps: first glucose is methylated to protect it from breaking down, next it is ethoxylated to enhance water compatibility, and finally it reacts with oleic acid to add the emollient tail. Because each stage is tightly controlled, the finished ingredient is consistent, biodegradable, and accepted by most global cosmetic standards.
You will see Peg-120 Methyl Glucose Trioleate in foaming face washes, micellar waters, body wash, makeup removers, 2 in 1 shampoo conditioners, sheet mask essences, and even creamy exfoliating scrubs where a silky, cushiony lather is desired without stripping the skin.
Peg-120 Methyl Glucose Trioleate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multitasker supports both the feel and performance of a formula
- Cleansing – Its sugar backbone attracts water while the fatty acid tails grab onto oils so it lifts away dirt, sunscreen and makeup without leaving skin tight
- Emollient – The oleic acid portion deposits a light conditioning film that smooths rough patches and helps soften hair or skin after rinsing
- Viscosity controlling – It thickens watery solutions, allowing brands to create rich gels and creamy foams without heavier waxes which keeps products clear and easy to spread
Who Can Use Peg-120 Methyl Glucose Trioleate
This sugar-based cleanser is mild enough for most skin types including dry, normal, combination, oily and sensitive. Because it removes grime without stripping the skin’s natural barrier it suits people prone to redness or tightness. Those with very oily skin may prefer it paired with stronger surfactants for a deeper cleanse but the ingredient itself is not inherently problematic for them.
Peg-120 Methyl Glucose Trioleate is made from plant-derived glucose and oleic acid so it is generally acceptable for vegans and vegetarians. Always check a brand’s sourcing statement if strict adherence is important because some manufacturers could in theory use animal-derived oleic acid.
The large molecular size means it is unlikely to penetrate into the bloodstream. Existing safety assessments find it appropriate for leave-on and rinse-off use during pregnancy and breastfeeding, yet this is not medical advice. Expectant or nursing individuals should review any skincare routine with their healthcare provider to be safe.
The molecule is not photoactive and does not make skin more sensitive to the sun, so no extra sun-protection steps are needed beyond a good daily sunscreen.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Peg-120 Methyl Glucose Trioleate vary from person to person. The issues listed below are possible but uncommon when the raw material is used correctly in a cosmetic formula.
- Mild skin irritation such as transient redness or stinging, usually linked to very high concentrations
- Allergic contact dermatitis in people with a specific sensitivity to polyethylene glycols or oleic acid derivatives
- Temporary eye discomfort if the product accidentally gets into the eyes before rinsing
- Dryness or tight feel if combined with other strong cleansers and used excessively
If any of these reactions occur stop using the product and consult a medical professional for guidance.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5
Peg-120 Methyl Glucose Trioleate is highly water soluble and usually rinsed off, so it is unlikely to sit in pores and cause blockages. While its oleic acid side chains could be pore clogging in their pure form, once they are bonded to the large PEG-sugar backbone they lose that tendency. Formulas that use this ingredient at typical levels therefore have a very low risk of triggering congestion.
Because of this low score, it is generally considered suitable for people who are prone to acne or breakouts.
Keep in mind that the overall recipe matters. Heavy oils or waxes paired with this ingredient could still clog pores even though Peg-120 Methyl Glucose Trioleate itself is not the culprit.
Summary
Peg-120 Methyl Glucose Trioleate is a gentle multitasker that cleanses, conditions and thickens. Its sugar head attracts water, its fatty tail lifts away oils and its long PEG chain lets it build a silky gel texture without extra thickeners. These traits make it a quiet workhorse in face washes, micellar waters and 2 in 1 shampoos.
It is not as famous as classic surfactants like sodium laureth sulfate but formulators appreciate its mildness and the soft after feel it leaves, so you will spot it in many products aimed at sensitive skin.
Safety reviews show it is low risk for irritation or allergy when used as directed. Still, skin can be unpredictable. When trying any new product that contains Peg-120 Methyl Glucose Trioleate it is wise to do a small patch test first to be sure your skin stays happy.