What Is Peg-20 Dilaurate?
Peg-20 Dilaurate is a synthetic ingredient created by attaching about 20 units of ethylene oxide to dilauric acid, a fatty acid that naturally occurs in coconut and palm kernel oil. The result is a waxy, off white material that readily dissolves in both water and oil. Chemists began exploring polyethylene glycol (PEG) esters in the mid 1900s as gentler alternatives to soap based surfactants, and Peg-20 Dilaurate soon became popular in personal care because it mixes oil and water so easily. Manufacture starts with lauric acid, which is first converted to dilauric acid then reacted with a specific chain length of polyethylene glycol. Careful control of temperature, pressure and pH yields a stable ingredient with consistent performance batch after batch. Today you will most often spot Peg-20 Dilaurate in facial cleansers, creamy body washes, moisturizers, sunscreens, makeup removers, sheet masks and hair conditioners where a smooth uniform texture is desirable.
Peg-20 Dilaurate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Peg-20 Dilaurate serves a single but important purpose in cosmetic formulas.
As an emulsifier it binds water based ingredients with oil based ingredients so the final product stays smooth and uniform. This improves the feel of the formula on skin, prevents separation on the shelf and helps active ingredients spread evenly for consistent results.
Who Can Use Peg-20 Dilaurate
Peg-20 Dilaurate is generally suitable for all skin types including oily, combination, normal and sensitive skin because it is considered a mild emulsifier that usually does not leave a heavy residue. Those with very dry skin may want to pair products containing it with richer moisturizers since the ingredient itself does not provide much occlusive protection.
The lauric acid used to create Peg-20 Dilaurate is almost always sourced from coconut or palm kernel oil so the finished ingredient can be formulated to be vegan and vegetarian friendly. Anyone strictly avoiding animal derived inputs should still verify a brand’s supply chain to be sure no animal fats were substituted.
No human or animal studies suggest any reproductive or developmental risk when Peg-20 Dilaurate is used topically which means products containing it can normally be used during pregnancy and while breastfeeding. This information is not medical advice so pregnant or nursing individuals should show any skincare products they plan to use to a qualified healthcare provider for personalized guidance.
Peg-20 Dilaurate does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and has no known effect on the efficacy of sunscreens or other photo protective measures.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Peg-20 Dilaurate differ from person to person. The points below outline possible but uncommon side effects. When the ingredient is used at typical cosmetic levels and manufactured correctly most people will never notice any of these issues.
- Mild skin irritation such as transient redness or stinging
- Contact dermatitis in individuals with PEG allergies or compromised skin barriers
- Eye irritation if a high concentration accidentally contacts the eyes
- Increased penetration of other actives which could amplify their own irritation potential
If any unwanted reaction occurs stop using the product and seek advice from a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 out of 5. Peg-20 Dilaurate is highly water soluble thanks to its polyethylene glycol chains so it rinses off skin rather than lodging in pores. The lauric acid backbone on its own can be pore clogging but once it is converted to this PEG ester its oily character is greatly reduced which lowers the chance of comedones forming.
Because the rating is so low most people prone to acne or breakouts can use products containing Peg-20 Dilaurate without added concern.
Formulas that pair this emulsifier with heavy plant butters or mineral oils could still be comedogenic overall so always consider the entire ingredient list.
Summary
Peg-20 Dilaurate is an emulsifier that keeps water and oil uniformly blended so lotions feel smooth and stable. It does this by positioning its water loving PEG portion in the aqueous phase while its lauric acid portion anchors into oils which bridges the two and prevents separation.
The ingredient is common in cleansers moisturizers sunscreens and hair conditioners but it is not a headline star so many consumers never notice it on the label even though it quietly supports product texture.
Current research and decades of use suggest it is safe for topical application with only rare reports of irritation or allergy. As with any new cosmetic it is wise to perform a quick patch test before full use especially if you have sensitive skin.