What Is Peg-23 Hexadecyleicosanoate?
Peg-23 Hexadecyleicosanoate is an emulsifying agent made by joining polyethylene glycol (PEG) with a long-chain fatty acid known as hexadecyleicosanoic acid. The fatty part is usually sourced from vegetable oils like coconut or palm while the PEG part comes from reacting ethylene oxide with water. Chemists began blending fatty acids with PEGs in the 1950s to solve the age-old problem of keeping oil and water together in creams and lotions. To make Peg-23 Hexadecyleicosanoate, manufacturers first isolate the fatty acid, then slowly add about 23 units of ethylene oxide under heat and pressure. The result is a waxy, water-loving ingredient that slips easily into modern formulations.
You will most often spot Peg-23 Hexadecyleicosanoate in moisturizers, sunscreens, anti-aging serums, cleansing balms, styling creams and rinse-off masks. Its job is to hold the recipe together so the product feels smooth, spreads evenly and stays stable on the shelf.
Peg-23 Hexadecyleicosanoate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In skincare and haircare products Peg-23 Hexadecyleicosanoate serves one main purpose: it is an emulsifier. By helping oil and water mix, it keeps creams from separating, improves texture, makes lotions lighter and ensures each squeeze or scoop delivers the same balanced blend of ingredients. A good emulsion also lets active ingredients spread more evenly across skin or hair which can boost overall performance.
Who Can Use Peg-23 Hexadecyleicosanoate
This emulsifier is generally considered suitable for all skin types. Its lightweight waxy nature works well in products aimed at oily or combination skin because it does not add heavy grease, yet it also supports the creamy textures preferred by dry or mature skin. Sensitive or compromised skin can usually tolerate it, but anyone with a known history of reacting to polyethylene glycols or fatty alcohols should approach with caution.
The fatty acid portion is normally sourced from plant oils, and the PEG portion is synthesized in a lab, so the ingredient is vegan and vegetarian friendly as long as the manufacturer confirms plant-based sourcing and cruelty-free processing.
Current safety data indicate no specific hazards for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is used topically at the low levels found in finished cosmetics. Still, this is not medical advice, and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should review any new skincare products with a qualified healthcare provider.
Peg-23 Hexadecyleicosanoate does not increase photosensitivity, so it will not make skin more reactive to sunlight. It is also fragrance-free and has no known interactions with common actives like retinoids or alpha hydroxy acids, making it easy to slot into most routines.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Peg-23 Hexadecyleicosanoate vary from person to person. The points below outline potential though uncommon side effects. When used at standard cosmetic concentrations most people will not experience these issues.
- Mild skin irritation such as redness, itching or stinging
- Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals sensitive to PEG derivatives
- Eye irritation if the raw ingredient or a concentrated formula accidentally enters the eyes
- Follicular congestion in people extremely prone to clogged pores when used in very rich leave-on products
- Rare contamination concerns with trace impurities like 1,4-dioxane if the supplier’s purification is inadequate
If any persistent irritation or unexpected reaction occurs discontinue use and seek advice from a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5 (very low)
Peg-23 Hexadecyleicosanoate carries a long fatty chain yet its surface is heavily coated with water-loving polyethylene glycol units. This PEGylation makes the molecule more water dispersible and less likely to sit in pores compared with straight fatty acids or waxes. Available data and formulators’ experience show little evidence of it triggering widespread clogging at normal use levels.
Because its pore-blocking potential is minimal it is generally suitable for people who struggle with acne or frequent breakouts.
The final impact still depends on the overall product. Rich balms that pair this emulsifier with heavy oils could feel occlusive on very oily skin, while lightweight lotions rarely pose an issue.
Summary
Peg-23 Hexadecyleicosanoate is first and foremost an emulsifier that lets oil and water blend smoothly, keeps formulas stable through temperature swings, improves spreadability and ensures each pump delivers a consistent mix of actives. It achieves this by anchoring its fatty tail in oils while its PEG chains interact with water, creating a flexible bridge between the two phases.
It is not a headline ingredient but it has a steady presence in moisturizers, sunscreens, styling creams and cleansing balms where reliable, low-irritation emulsifiers are needed. Its popularity tends to fly under the radar because it works quietly in the background rather than offering marketing buzz.
Current research and cosmetic safety panels rate it as low risk with few reported reactions. As with any new product it is wise to perform a quick patch test to confirm personal tolerance especially for those with very reactive skin.